Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Jul 24, 2017 12:34:14 GMT -5
After a while seemingly getting no-where, suddenly there's two chassis' almost up and running.
The 'new' D Type Auto union was not ready for the start of the 1938 season, so a halfway measure was introduced using the D Type engine in a supposedly shortened C Type chassis with extensive modification, all clothed in a new body. The body is a GTM example of this car.
Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Jul 24, 2017 13:31:15 GMT -5
The chassis was made from 16g steel and rather than being folded up, has separate rear axle brackets bolted on. The rear axle now runs in flanged ball bearings. The Flat 6 motor, combined with an offset Slot it gear, gets the motor down enough for a reasonable amount of driver detail.
Like most of my home-built chassis' these days, the chassis 'platform' is a close fit.
As usual - amazing work! I should note, that for those who are so inclined, this is a very competitive design - even with GTM resin chassis, if set up with the right components -the extra width and weight down low adding nice handling --even on proper 'skinny' tyres!!
What always amazes me is the high powered motors you Brits put in your vintage era cars. Do your tracks not have corners? Do you race the cars at 6 volts? Doesn't all that torque overpower those skinny tires? Perhaps it is your intention to replicate the dangerously overpowered/undertired period of motorsport? Enquiring minds need to know....
Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Sept 7, 2017 7:48:29 GMT -5
Why a big motor? As a certain Kiwi body caster extraordinaire would say, fun. Mainly. It's pure coincidence that this car is now my fastest scratch/kit built racer and of the present cars which race at my club, only the modern Le Mans cars can manage a faster lap time. I'm by no means a great driver.
In the last couple of years I've been playing around with chassis' and gone away from my previous aluminium fabrications to steel ones instead. This was mainly to counteract the high up C of G found with most resin bodies, and it seems to have worked. The C/D Type incidentally weighs in at 111g at present, though will lose a bit at the tail end. With this weight involved, a powerful motor suits the bill.
Built as it is, it is very easy to try a smaller motor, whereas done the other way round this would involve chassis mods.
Had there been a smaller motor with the same profile (is there?) I would perhaps have tried that instead. The low motor height was important, hence the offset gears.
An opportunity for a catch up post.
A little progress has been made. I'd guess GT still had decal issues when this car was made, as the decals supplied seem to be laser printed and must be trimmed before application. They worked out fine.
I'm now trying to do all my flyscreens fitted into a slot in the scuttle top, which makes for a more durable and more easily repaired/replaced feature.
The almost completed underside. A few grams will probably be shed. Sometime.
A well behaved, well balanced car, with admirable manners even on the club's Scalextric hairpins. It does not slide all over the place, nor does it keep spinning the rear wheels all the time. I love it!
Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Nov 7, 2017 9:37:40 GMT -5
Something of a record bearing in mind recent builds, the 1938 AutoUnion C/D is now complete, in less than 5 months.
There was actually little to do regarding finishing touches.
The driver is the one supplied, somewhat modified. The head was removed and it was instantly better. So ugly. The replacement was one from John (Munter) with slight mods, though I recking in converting from a crash helmet to a cloth helmet, I should have removed a bit more material. The torso was cut in two and a new section added.
The exhaust pipes were the leftovers from some plated ferrules, shortened for use as guide cable eyelets. They are probably too big, but it used them up!
Nicer I think than the C Type, much nicer than The D.
Post by David Mitcham on Nov 8, 2017 13:31:31 GMT -5
I like it - great piece of work. Your comments on the C/D type's performance just show how important centre of gravity is to good handling and stability. A lesson I've taken to heart with the Ferrari 156.
Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Nov 9, 2017 11:17:40 GMT -5
David, from my point of view the handling is more important than the speed, hence the effort to get the C of G low and reasonably central. I suspect I can afford to shed a little weight at the tail end and I will eventually probably alter the motor to match the speed to the competition. Not something most folk do, but then all our club races are handicapped.
Post by Andrew Rowland on Jan 7, 2018 4:59:11 GMT -5
Hi Peter I can't find any reference photos of this car.... can I ask if the steering wheel blue and black shirt are fantasy or based on historic fact? As you know i'm building this same car and it would be helpful if you could share your understanding of these cars.... Thank in advance Andrew
Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Jan 7, 2018 7:17:43 GMT -5
A bit of both Andi.
The steering wheel was painted blue because one of the pictures I found showed what appeared to be a blue steering wheel. This was a modern picture. Most pictures of restored cars suggest brown leather?
The black T shirt is based on fact, with a well known picture of Müller practicing for the 1938 Swiss GP in a similar car, with what is almost certainly a black T shirt. Google it and you'll find it.
Post by Andrew Rowland on Jan 7, 2018 13:33:51 GMT -5
Thanks Peter and Chris I've had a go at this build but as I first attempt at some race weathering I think maybe i've misunderstood the technique. Anyway i'm pretty much ready for Rockingham in two weeks.... I've also completely rebuilt the rear end of the 4WD Cosworth after wiping it out in practice at Presto Park! Hopefully i'll be able to race it this time.