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Post by Peter Seager-Thomas on Sept 23, 2018 11:28:44 GMT -5
Thanks Peter. I did check Luf's website, but there wasn't any link to any tires or other parts for sale. The website didn't look like it was recently maintained, but its hard to tell that sort of thing. I would love to buy tires from Luf, actually. I think the PCS wheel sets will work OK for me. I am planning on doing a Type A Auto Union. I know we don't actually have a planned event yet, but any impetus is a good thing! Max, I just checked and Luf is still making tyres, but only to order. Contact him via the site. Peter.
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Post by maxrossmassler on Sept 24, 2018 12:29:18 GMT -5
Fantastic! thanks!
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Post by Andrew Rowland on Sept 24, 2018 14:29:42 GMT -5
Interesting that nobody has commented on motors John. Maybe they should be free choice.....
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Post by munter on Sept 24, 2018 22:44:56 GMT -5
Yes, Andi....maybe.
I am waiting to see if there are indeed any thoughts and preferences. You have yours and I have mine but are there any other thoughts out there, re motors?
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Post by EM on Sept 25, 2018 2:26:06 GMT -5
Probably repeating myself but:
Motors:
1. Commercially available thru normal hobby distribution channels
2. Voiturette class: FF050 or FF030 motors (any spec)or FC/FK130 motors =< 14,500 RPM (good luck getting one into a scale voiturette shell) - No "hot" HO motors
3: GP class: No restrictions but if a car draws enough current to pop a 5A breaker or blow an equivalent fuse, it will be a DNS
Only a small spanner in the cogs: The 1940 W165 Mercedes was a 1500 cc car (voiturette specs) but raced as a GP car. Where does it fit?
EM
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Post by David Mitcham on Sept 25, 2018 14:38:56 GMT -5
Here’s my input on motors and wheels/tyres in the interests of getting a resolution of the outstanding rule issues. Ultimately I’ll enter the proposed proxy almost no matter what the rules are as long as the cars look right when compared to their real counterparts! Motors Voiturette cars - I think the motor regulation should be commercially available and unmolested FF050s. I have no fundamental difficulty with the rpm being unrestricted but if we want to preserve some relation to reality then I assume we don’t want Voiturettes to be potentially quicker than the Grand Prix cars. Therefore I’d go for a rev limit of 18K rpm. Grand Prix cars – a free choice of commercially available and unmolested motor is fine. Wheels/Tyres Its going to be very hard to find wheels and tyres which are absolutely accurate given the variety of dimensions on the real cars and, particularly, the limited availability of ‘correct’ 1/32 scale wheels and tyres. It seems there are few wheels commercially available that come close to the right dimensions. Now that Peter is no longer selling his amazing wheels I’ve only been able to identify the larger Pendle/PCS wheels and tyres and possibly the RS Racing ones (although I think they are a little narrow). Of the PCS wheels I think there are two that would be satisfactory - the PCS-32247 19” wheel at 23.5mm tyre diameter and 7mm width at the side-wall and approximately 5.5mm tread width www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/pcs-classic-spoke-alloy-wheels-23-5x7mm.html and the PCS-32277 23” wheels at 25mm diameter, 7mm side-wall width and 5.5mm tread width www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/pcs-classic-spoke-alloy-wheels-25-5x7mm.html. I don’t know if any other of the tyres identified in previous posts would fit the PCS wheels but from experience with both these wheels/tyres the rubber does have good grip. There is also the PCS-32246 which is said to be a 15” wheel with a tyre diameter of 24mm and a 6mm width at the side-wall which may be suitable for some front applications www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/pcs-classic-spoke-alloy-wheels-24x6mm.html and the PCS-32227 www.pendleslotracing.co.uk/pcs-classic-spoke-alloy-wheels-22x7mm.html . I’ve compared the PCS wheels to two scale drawings I have of the Maserati 8CTF and the Maserati 6CM and they are dimensionally not perfect but about right. My conclusion from this, albeit limited, analysis is that the minimum diameter for the rear wheels/tyres for GP cars should be 23mm with a width at the side-wall of 7mm and a tread width not exceeding 5.5mm. For Voiturettes 22mm minimum diameter and the same width dimensions as the GP cars. For the front wheels for both classes the minimum diameter should be 21mm with a minimum width of 6mm at the side-wall and a minimum tread width of 4.5mm. One other issue I think we need to have some latitude on is whether the guide is visible from above. Some of these pre-War cars had very short noses (ie from the front axle to the front of the radiator grille) the two Maseratis mention above being examples. For such cars think it would be impossible for the guide to be completely hidden even if the guide-post were to be right up against the front axle. Therefore I suggest the rule should be that where a car does have a very short nose the guide can be visible but the rear of the guide-post must be no more than 3mm in front of the circumference of the axle. As I wrote above I'm going to enter if the proxy goes ahead so I'm certainly not going to be offended if anyone takes exception to the above suggestions. Best Regards David
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Post by EM on Sept 26, 2018 14:19:08 GMT -5
I am "in" no matter what as well
On guides: I would be inclined to stick with the "see no evil" approach. In addition to the usual OEM guides, there are several other approaches to limited front overhang. The Sakatsu guide (availability?) guide is very small and is pivoted at the front. I have modified a number of TSRF guides (per an Al Penrose suggestion) by cutting off the guide shaft, drilling a 1/16" hole at the front of the guide and, with a length of 1/16" wire for reinforcement, refastened the guide shaft at the very front with a high strength epoxy. Despite this somewhat "agricultural" approach, I have not experienced any failures with this. (I cut the threads on the shaft before cutting it off) Finally, decent results can be obtained by positioning the guide pivot behind the front axle provided the front wheels rotate independently
EM
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Post by maxrossmassler on Sept 26, 2018 15:23:49 GMT -5
David, that's a lot of research, thanks very much! Like you, I will enter pretty much regardless of the final requirements. -Max
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Post by EM on Sept 27, 2018 4:37:17 GMT -5
As a measure of my interest in cars of the era, I offer the following:
In designing my track (unfortunately, I no longer have it) the big " up and over the bridge and then down to a reverse curve section" was designed specifically as a place to see the big cars of those days drifting through the corners. It did, indeed, meet the design goals.
EM
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Post by munter on Sept 27, 2018 18:27:29 GMT -5
Rules version 1.3........... I have added in motor spec and wheel tire specs so please see those.
Body Must be 1/32 scale + or – 1mm Hard body of a prototypical car, body must be solidly fitted to the chassis in such a way as to truly represent car, it cannot appear to be lowered to chassis. Body float or rock is acceptable. All body shells must be of hard plastic, glass fibre, resin, wood, metal or similar material
Fixings should not be visible above or to the sides of the body.
All body fixings must be securely fixed to prevent loosening/dropping off during racing.
Streamliners or vacuum formed bodies are not permitted.
All cars must be finished in a style sympathetic to the period being represented and carry at least two racing numbers.
All cars must have clear windscreens etc. fitted where they appear on the prototype.
Vacuum formed windscreens etc. are permitted.
All cars must have a suitably decorated and period correct, 3 dimensional, representation of a driver consisting of at least a head, shoulders, arms, hands and the upper part of a steering wheel.
The chassis, motor and all running gear must not be visible from above or through the cockpit opening and engine bay unless that which can be seen represents parts of the real car. Suspension components and exhaust systems for example.
Chassis Any material list here can be used to construct a chassis…brass, wire, plastic, nylon, wood, steel, PCB board
Wheelbase and Track Both dimensions must be set at 1:32nd scale plus or minus 1mm. Max width GP cars 53mm, Voiturette 50mm, measured bulge to tyre bulge across the width of the car.
Bearings can be brass, oilite or ballrace Ground Clearance From the bottom of the chassis including ballast to track surface at any point. Including Screw Heads. Grand Prix Car 4mm Minimum Voiturettte Car 3mm Minimum
Guide Choice The slot guide must not protrude beyond the front-most point of the car when in the straight ahead position and viewed from above. Black in colour only. One guide per car.
Motor- Voiturette max rpm 18K rpm FF... seeing as the SRP ff 18k is easily available but 14 and 16k is not GP- open choice Motor Alignment - In-Line only
Front Wheels - Any wheel and tyre combination but must give a true representation of the original (I.e. no low profile or inappropriately narrow tyres), appropriate period style 3D inserts must be fitted.
Front Tyres - Overall diameter of wheels and tyre must be: GP cars Min Diameter 21.5mm with a max width of 6mm. Voiturettes Min Diameter 21.5mm with a max width of 6mm. Contact patch and minimum width 4.5mm
Coated Front Tyres yes but only to reduce grip.
Rear Tyres - Overall diameter of wheels and tyre must be: GP cars min Diameter 23.0mm with a max width of 7mm. Voiturettes min Diameter 22.0mm with a max width of 7mm. Tyres are measured bulge to bulge not contact patch Contact patch 5.5mm
Glue & True - yes
Axles - Free Choice
Gears - Free Choice
Magnet No
Ballast - Free Choice
Weight - Min
Livery - It is essential that the car runs in an authentic livery from the period
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Post by EM on Sept 27, 2018 21:37:50 GMT -5
Alea iacta est?
EM
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Post by munter on Sept 27, 2018 21:52:51 GMT -5
down here we have saying, "yeah nah"
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Post by Andrew Rowland on Sept 27, 2018 23:44:41 GMT -5
Great, lets go! Andi
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Post by EM on Sept 28, 2018 1:26:56 GMT -5
down here we have saying, "yeah nah" I am traveling today to my 65th high school reunion. It was by the way of a salute to my Latin tutor
EM
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