Soldering steel to hardened steel axles

[Aurora]

Has anyone here soldered hardened steel axles?

I'd like to solder a piece of steel to an axle. I plan to use silver solder, acid flux, and a torch.

Anything wrong with this approach?

[Andrew Rowland]

I wonder if you might distort the axle?
Also how you cool it afterwards might impact its hardness.

Trying to remember my welding classes to be honest....

[Phil Kalbfell]

I assume you are making stub axles assembly for the front end? If so why not use 3/32 piano wire it is a little oversize so will need to be polished down to suit the bearings , but it solders easily to the othe components.
We used it for axles for many years .

[Aurora]

Thanks guys for the suggestions. David, it was for stub axles. I would use piano wire if I had some 3/32. I know it seems ridiculous, but I haven't been able to find any here, despite years of looking. And of course, when I order stuff from overseas, I always forget.

[David Lawson]

I've soldered both brass and steel washers onto the end of hardened steel stub axles with a torch without any problems, I've also used 3/32 piano wire.

David

[Aurora]

My apologies Phil...I meant to address you. You are correct,,this was to create stub axles for my GPd car.

I'm installing the full length axle for the proxy race, so I don't need the stub axles immediately. I'll experiment with the hardened steel axles and install when the car returns.

Thanks David for confirmation that it can be done.

[Aurora]

To follow up on my question, soldering steel to hardened steel axles to create stub axles, was as indicated by David Lawson, no problem.

The axle is Sloting Plus. Flange is mild steel, cut from scrap notebook binder. Acid flux, silver bearing solder, and a torch were used. No problem at all.


Flats have been ground. The flanged ends will be domed, then final cleanup. 

No special method for cooling, just let them sit a few minutes. No distortion observed.

[Deleted]

Nice joints there. Silver bearing soft solder is the best description, otherwise silver solder is a description of a hard solder with a high melting point around 650 degrees.

Martin

[Chris Wright]

Thanks for a little clarity on this Matt and Martin, I've seen many people on other forums say they solder their chassis together with silver Solder, and others say that 60/40 is stronger for chassis building.

This alway confused me, because in Metal shop at school we were taught to make a brass toast fork. We "Silver Soldered" it together, in the forge using a very large butane torch and a very small amount of siver, It certainly reached 650 degrees.

So now I know, and if any of you old timers remember that Concours ECRA winning Lotus 18 with the complete scale chassis, apparently that was silver solder "paint", I wondered how that thing stayed together with all that butt joined piano wire.

Now I know. OK gentlemen we need to get to this standard. More information on the Lotus 18 is available on this thread:

f-one-thirty-two.proboards.com/thread/820/lotus-concours-winner-peter-godden

[Deleted]

Oh, I remember that issue popping through the letter box, Chris and those old mags STILL give me a thrill!

As to SOFT soldering (albeit with a little silver in the mix) will this do, guvnor?