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Post by Chris Wright on Nov 24, 2014 13:08:10 GMT -5
Left side, right side? Both? Arrrgh That IS a Maserati Logo
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Post by David Mitcham on Nov 24, 2014 13:12:05 GMT -5
I agree but its not the French GP car Mark is modeling. The "photo" on the Siffert site is of that car, no. 18.
Best Regards
David
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Post by David Lawson on Nov 24, 2014 13:26:35 GMT -5
David M is correct it is a BP logo, it was the style of the BP badge over a chequered flag.
David L
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Post by Chris Wright on Nov 24, 2014 13:44:07 GMT -5
David M is correct it is a BP logo, it was the style of the BP badge over a chequered flag. David L Like this ?
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Post by David Mitcham on Nov 24, 2014 14:00:14 GMT -5
Yes just like that!
Best Regards
David
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Post by Mark Huber on Nov 24, 2014 14:21:28 GMT -5
I'm glad I asked for help; Thanks guys! I'm also glad that I have a set of these that came with the Prewing Cooper Maserati kits. And to think that I have 3 more of these cars to build in two different liveries.
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Post by Mark Huber on Dec 14, 2014 13:16:35 GMT -5
Next up is Dan Gurney's #9 Eagle Weslake. I think the Classic model is a far better representation of the Eagle than the current Scalextric RTR car. The former just looks right..or more right. I've decided to do minimal modifications to the Classic shell. Therefore, I haven't narrowed the opening for the injection trumpets. But I would like to fashion some exhaust supports for the car. I would really appreciate some advice as to what would be the best material to build these support braces. Very small fiddly stuff I think. Thanks!
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Post by David Mitcham on Dec 14, 2014 15:09:56 GMT -5
Hi Mark
For the mounts I use fine brass rod bent and inserted into holes in the gear box housing. For the bits that hold the pipes for the Tecno I used slivers cut from the end of boot ferrules (as used for injection trumpets) with a diameter which just slides over the pipes. You could used brass tube but the ferrules us slightly thinner metal. With care these can be glued or soldered to the supporting rods once they are in place on the exhausts.
Best Regards
David
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Post by Mark Huber on Dec 14, 2014 15:29:04 GMT -5
I modified an IM driver 'shelf' to make a full driver figure for the Eagle. I really like the craftsmanship of the IM driver 'shelf'. A few cuts with a Dremel, hot water to bend the arms and then another set of legs (also IM) and I had the driver figure shaped for the Eagle. I had more than a little help with the driver as Lynne Haines very kindly painted Dan Gurney's head, also from Immense Miniatures. The stripes were easy compared to getting the tiny Goodyear decal on the tunic.
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Post by Aurora on Dec 15, 2014 7:16:11 GMT -5
Mark, how about hypodermic needles for your Eagle exhaust support? Read on if you got nuthin' better to do...
Next time you are in your local pharmacy, check out their supply of hypodermic needles. Disposable needles usually have plastic, color coded hubs that lock the needle onto the syringe. These plastic hubs can be cut off or modified to suit your application. You could insert the tip of the needle into your Eagle gearbox and shape the plastic hub to support the exhaust pipes.
I measured the exhaust supports on the 1/32 Scalextric Eagle at around 0.9 mm O.D. A disposable 20G (20 TW gauge, 'Thin Wall') stainless steel hypodermic needle is 0.9 mm outside diameter.
However, judging from the photo of the Eagle you posted, a support with a smaller diameter might look closer to scale. Perhaps a support with a diameter around 0.6 mm? A 23G thin wall needle has an outside diameter of 0.6 mm.
Conveniently, a 23G 0.6 mm thin wall needle will fit snugly inside a 20G 0.9 mm thin wall needle. So both sizes are handy to keep in your supply box.
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