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Post by Chris Wright on Oct 9, 2014 16:22:46 GMT -5
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Post by David Lawson on Oct 9, 2014 17:12:21 GMT -5
This photograph from the Ian Bamsey book on the Lotus 25 shows Brabham at Monaco in his apple green 24 David
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Post by Ember on Oct 9, 2014 17:17:43 GMT -5
Thank you so much for the welcome and the source photos. So much more than I've been able to find myself. I even bought a book on early F1 in the hopes it might have some useful images. Although I really didn't expect to find any photos of Jack's Lotus I did expect to find other photos of Climax powered 24s that would prove helpful. Would you believe only 2 Lotus 24 images and both of those with BRM powerplants? No big promises on a masterpiece of the sort you lads produce. Very much the build novice here, and rather a numpty when it comes to these elegant machines. But hopefully I can muddle through and produce something worthwhile. Who knows... If it works, I might even be tempted to try again. This is where the build stands currently. It's a Penelope Pitlane shell. To date I feel like all I've done is take bits off it.
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Post by Chris Wright on Oct 9, 2014 23:18:55 GMT -5
This photograph from the Ian Bamsey book on the Lotus 25 shows Brabham at Monaco in his apple green 24 David That's a great shot David, I see he took the engine side covers off, probably for engine cooling, and that Jack was bumping from kerb to kerb, judging from the white paint dust on the tyres. Great shot Chris
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Post by Ember on Oct 9, 2014 23:56:51 GMT -5
Actually, they look a lot squarer and sharper than the openings on the PP shell. I notice the top is divided into two as well. Oh, please forgive me if I use incorrect nomenclature at any (or all) time. I warned I'm far from familiar with F1/GP cars. Looks like I'll have to get the light putty out to sort that. And I can scrap the fitting of mesh that I was working on yesterday.
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Post by Mark Huber on Oct 10, 2014 14:36:46 GMT -5
And I can scrap the fitting of mesh that I was working on yesterday. My eyes may be deceiving me, but I think the wire screens are still in the upper openings that vent the carburetors. The lower panels above the exhaust manifolds have definitely been removed.
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Post by Ember on Oct 10, 2014 16:17:52 GMT -5
You could be right there, and probably are. All of the other cars seem the other way around.
Another question, if I may. Was Jack's car was powered by the 6 cylinder motor? The two holes (vents?) would seem to indicate 2 groups.
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Post by Chris Wright on Oct 10, 2014 16:31:52 GMT -5
Hi Lynne, Chris here, look at the blue print, most (but not all) Lotus 24's were powered by a Coventry Climax V-8 (eight cylinders). I think every one had a problem keeping them cool, thats why the engine covers received more and more holes, got more truncated, and tail cone over the gearbox disappeared. What mark was talking about is the panels behind the suspension radius arm were removed (check out Mr Lawson's photo)but the screen is there on the square holes either side of the engine cover, I don't think the two oblong holes right on top of the engine cover have screen behind them. Here's a link to a site that has Jack's car as it exists now-a-days, maybe you can see whats going on a little better, there are a lot more photo's on this site too: link
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Post by Ember on Oct 10, 2014 19:08:20 GMT -5
I can see a panel on the first photos of the car running #22 in the first group of photos that are not there in the larger photo kindly posted by Mr Lawson. Other permutations seem to have varying amounts of this lower panel removed. Is this the one to which you refer? Some of the photos definitely have nothing shielding behind the rear suspension, you can see daylight glinting on metal.
I'm beginning to feel like I've had an elephant placed on a plate in front of me and I don't know where to stick the fork.
Think I might paint some driver heads to relax.
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Post by Chris Wright on Oct 10, 2014 19:20:24 GMT -5
I can see a panel on the first photos of the car running #22 in the first group of photos that are not there in the larger photo kindly posted by Mr Lawson. Other permutations seem to have varying amounts of this lower panel removed. Is this the one to which you refer? I'm beginning to feel like I've had an elephant placed on a plate in front of me and I don't know where to stick the fork. Think I might paint some driver heads to relax. That is correct, Mr Lawson's photo is of the car in the race, they probably took the panels off for the race because of the heat. The body you have does not have the panels anyway, they are large tabs, to which you could attach them to if you wished. Here's a photo of the Lotus 24 I'm working on with them attached (photo #1) and removed (photo #2)......... (Ignore the engine cover it's for Jim Clark's Lotus 18)) Photo #1 tabs attached Photo#2 tabs removed
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Post by Chris Wright on Oct 10, 2014 19:31:37 GMT -5
Maybe this will help, it's the same car as you're building (Jack Brabham's), just put mesh in the square holes in the engine cover.
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Post by Ember on Oct 10, 2014 23:30:43 GMT -5
So many tiny variations. Think I might try sorting a chassis out and come back to the question marks.
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Post by Ember on Nov 13, 2014 2:41:59 GMT -5
After a minor break to clear up some rally car commitments, it's now back to concentrating on the Lotus. The Penelope Pitlane origami chassis went out the door with a broken motor mount and the honeycomb plate came to the fore. Mark was kind enough to give me some links to various build threads with 'simple' chassis made from BWA bracket sets. The simplest option of the lot seemed to be this one by Mr Lawson Did I say simple? Oh how wrong I was. I spent several sessions trying to bend up matching parts and came up extremely frustrated. There's almost 3' of piano wire in that pile, would you believe? I tried to bend one and then copy it. I tried to bend two bits of wire at the same time. Completely without success. I was completely ready to throw in the towel on the piano wire and go back to brass, but some encouragement from both Chris and Mark got me to give it one more try. The eureka moment came this morning. The solution was to work the two pieces bend for bend. Others had convinced me to have some trepidation over soldering the piano wire, but clean wire and Baker's Fluid made short work of the task. I plan to take some corners off with a file or a grinding stone. Still have to tackle the rear suspension springs. At the moment I'm thinking of using some soft nickle silver wire I have and wrapping that around piano wire, although I am certainly open to suggestions.
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Post by David Mitcham on Nov 13, 2014 3:46:16 GMT -5
Hi Lynne Looking very good. For spring/damper units I use three sizes of brass tube. A long (depends on where you want the upper nad lower mounting points to be and the distance between them) inner one of 0.8mm outside diameter) a shorter piece of 1.55mm OD tube for the damper part, and thin slices of 2.36mm tube for the upper and lower spring retainers - in other word you need three diameters of tube that fit within each other. The upper thin slice needs to be made up of the largest diameter tube with the middle size tube within it so it fits snuggly near the top of the smallest diameter tube. I either make the springs out of thin pliable wire shaped round the middle size tube ( eg fuse wire) or commercially available springs I can get from a UK model boat company(!). The photo below may help; unfortunatley I don't have any photos of building the spring/damper units. Hope this helps. Best Regards David
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Post by David Lawson on Nov 13, 2014 4:23:44 GMT -5
I have also ended up with a pile of reject piano wire suspension arms before I get it right but it's cheap so has never bothered me but I never thought to bend the matching pair at the same time, so obvious when someone tells you...
David
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