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Post by David Lawson on Nov 24, 2014 13:33:04 GMT -5
I love this thread as it highlights all the little niggles that arise when building these small Halftonner grand prix cars which makes it a very useful tutorial for every scratchbuilder whether they are a beginner or experienced.
David
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Post by Ember on Nov 24, 2014 17:08:56 GMT -5
Thanks David, I was rather worried I was probably just annoying the crap out of you guys.
Ta Phil, gear ratio noted.
I suppose I'll just have to suck it up and see what I can do about fixing that rear suspension problem. They slipped a little when I was soldering them (remember that ambidextrous wish?)If I can get the top corner tacked into place I should be able to grind the overlap off from the top. Hopefully.
I'm so glad I didn't choose a complicated first build.
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Post by Ember on Nov 24, 2014 19:15:23 GMT -5
The Tamiya Light Curing Putty isn't exactly a cheap option. I think its RRP in this neck of the woods is about AUD20, but like so many things you can get it cheap (half price) if you're prepared to brave that well known auction site. For filling, even large areas, I don't use anything else anymore. It doesn't shrink. It sets very hard. It's sandable within minutes and takes paint well. You do need to work in a dimly lit area or else it will cure before you get it in place. But once you get used to using it it's great.
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Post by Ember on Nov 25, 2014 2:12:35 GMT -5
I feel a bit like I'm destined to do everything wrong at least once before getting it right. Never mind. Hopefully it means the right way will sink in better for potential future use. I did adjust the rear suspension springs. So the shell sits better on the rear now. And overall But now I'm not really happy with the guide. It might be because I'm used to using a sprung guide, but it needs work.
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Post by Dave Wisdom on Nov 25, 2014 2:23:50 GMT -5
Thats looking much better Lynne.
Forgive me if you're already going to do this, as I know its still in the early stages, but a guide with a longer post may help sit the guide blade deeper into the slot by adding spacers between the guide and chassis guide tube.
The rear suspension looks fabulous.
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Post by slo on Nov 25, 2014 3:13:57 GMT -5
Lovely work Lynne! Its very neat, particularly for a first build, well done! When attaching the shockers I leave the piano wire long (the wire that forms the shocker shaft or rod) so that it can more easily be held by a third hand. Remove the excess once soldered Not a very good picture but I hope you get the idea To make the shocker I use 2mm thick walled (.45mm) brass or aluminium tube (turned to shape in a lathe) to form the coil stops or shocker ends, 1mm piano wire forms the shocker shaft/rod. I wind 26 or 32 gauge bead wire around 1/16th (1.6mm) piano wire inserted in the chuck of a drill and using the drill to wind the bead wire to form the coils The green shockers in this pic I used 1/16 brass tube to form the shocker ends
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Post by Ember on Nov 25, 2014 4:44:41 GMT -5
Thanks Dave. That's the length of the NSR guide. The Slot.it one is the same. I think I'll try my trusty Ninco sprung guide tomorrow.
Stu, I like the idea of the handle. A definite "why didn't I think of that?" moment.
I like your shocks too. A large would be a nice toy to have.
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Post by Ember on Dec 14, 2014 1:20:19 GMT -5
Well, obviously the "large" in the post above should be "lathe." One day smart phones might be smart enough to learn English. Trying hard to get this build moving forward again. The Ranch Design gears arrived, and nicely done pieces of engineering they are. I'be had the front wheels on the tyre lathe all day trying to get 2.3mm off them and bring them down to the 19.2mm minimum. Also managed to get the shell sitting a little further over the chassis. I think the Slot.it guide seems to fit better than the NSR one, but I'll make the final decision on that when the wheels are right. Next comes the ever enjoyable task of trying to mount the shell on the chassis. Hate this bit. I've got to remember to order some styrene tube sometime, but for now I think I've got a block of resin from something else that might do the job. Hope so. There's not much room in there.
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Post by Stubbo on Dec 14, 2014 1:34:59 GMT -5
You could try white builders plugs cut to length.
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Post by Ember on Dec 14, 2014 7:29:05 GMT -5
Tried green and red. Both too thick. I didn't have any white ones to try. There's not actually a lot of room between the front axle and the rear mount hole on the front bracket. Hopefully what I'm trying will work.
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Post by Ember on Dec 27, 2014 16:40:04 GMT -5
Now that Christmas is out of the way I can get back to concentrating on the Lotus, rather than curing hams and smoking bacon.
Yesterday I rolled the old girl out of the garage and had a good look at her. With the front tires trimmed down to closer to minimum size (I managed to grind them down from 22.2mm diameter to closer to 19.5mm) the guide sat a little better in the slot but still not enough. Then, as I needed to get the iron out to rework the guide mount I decided to tackle the uneven front arms as well. They had been annoying me for a while as the left side was scraping on the tyre wall and causing grief.
Picked up a scrap of wire and pliers and in under 30 seconds had a matching piece made. Why couldn't it work that way in the first place? Argh! I suppose it proves that the third time is the charm.
I'll post some updated photos later. But at the moment I think the body is finally ready for some colour.
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Post by Ember on Dec 28, 2014 23:29:31 GMT -5
Well... Didn't get any painting done yesterday. Too windy. Didn't get any painting done today. Too wet. Here's the Lotus as it looks currently. Mike Spence is currently holding the fort for Jack, who is currently undergoing some reconstructive surgery prior to being set into silicon. I think to try to get the colour vibrant enough I'll undercoat in a bright sunshine yellow and top coat in the green candy that I used on this Cunningham's fantasy livery.
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Post by rosco01 on Dec 29, 2014 17:45:15 GMT -5
I don't know about smoking bacon or curing ham, I could never get the stuff to light - and once something is dead, trying to heal it is nigh on impossible..
You're miles ahead of me, Ember... the Lotus will look so much faster with Black Jack at the wheel.. well, more aggressive..
Yes, bending this blasted piano wire... and I've only managed two bends... using 0.55" - I'm glad I didn't try the 0.062" first up - might have resorted to the gas torch method.
I'm following this thread probably closer than you are - you simply can't appreciate how much I'm gleaning from your posts..
frats, Rosco
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Post by Ember on Dec 29, 2014 23:36:46 GMT -5
I've just received a bit of bad news, I'm afraid. It seems Sir Jack has been unavoidably detained and will be unavailable to drive my Lotus in the foreseeable future. This is a huge disappointment for me as the promise of a Jack Brabham portrait head from Immense Miniatures is what started this whole adventure.
Now I have to decide if I should use an unnamed driver as a stand in for Jack or change tack and do a completely different Lotus 24 altogether.
Not sure what to do.
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Post by rosco01 on Dec 30, 2014 17:35:57 GMT -5
Hmmm... I do hope Jack's absence is not of a medical nature, Ember.
I'm certain there would have been a support driver available - not that I can recall anyone stepping in under such circumstances.
I expect that in this form of racing, the driver and car would have been linked as entrants - waiting with baited breath for suggestions from the forum.
Just lapping up the final hours of 2014... hope to happily continue following this and other threads in the forum into 2015 and beyond.
I do hope Jack can join us next year for the series.
frats, Rosco
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