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Post by Ember on Jan 14, 2015 0:56:57 GMT -5
Dumb question time again. Does anyone have tips for fitting mesh?
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Post by David Mitcham on Jan 14, 2015 5:56:49 GMT -5
Hi Lynne
My method is to make a former to the shape you want the mesh to be/fit and gently shape it round the former. It then should just fit into the hole and you can then glue it in place from the inside of the body - I assume in this case its for the holes in the sides/top of the engine cover? Sometimes the mesh on the prototype fits in a sort of frame; you can make the frame out of very thin and narrow brass strip and then, again using a former, mould the mesh to shape within the frame. If you look at my Cooper Maserati build in the.GPd2014 thread you'll see what I mean; also my Ferrari 156 Aero. Hope that helps!
Best Regards
David
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Post by alfetta on Jan 14, 2015 8:41:05 GMT -5
Biggest problem now is the BWA brackets are no longer available.
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Post by David Lawson on Jan 14, 2015 11:31:12 GMT -5
Alfetta - you can use the very similar slimline brackets from AB Slotsport.
Ember - when it is flush fitting mesh I Dremel a rebated surround to the inside of the opening and fit the mesh in to this.
David
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Post by Ember on Jan 14, 2015 15:40:06 GMT -5
Thanks. And is there a preferred glue? I was going to use canopy glue, but that stuff takes forever to cure.
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Post by David Mitcham on Jan 14, 2015 17:14:00 GMT -5
Hi Lynne
I would use an quick setting epoxy resin or Gorilla superglue.
Best regard
David
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Post by Ember on Jan 19, 2015 16:44:19 GMT -5
Well... That was a fun day....NOT! Trying to hold a screen in the right place ready to tape from the outside before gluing from the inside. Somehow I finished up with the shell in two parts. Tail has come off where I had to adjust a little for the rear suspension. I should've thought to strengthen it.
Oh well. With try to find a way to repair it today I suppose, but it's going to look like crud. No way to hide it, at least not without stripping all the paint off to do the repair work. Timeline and the other deadlines I have looming don't exactly allow for that.
Ahhh well... It's certainly not going to be pretty...
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Post by rosco01 on Jan 19, 2015 16:54:43 GMT -5
Hi Lynne, Screens can be pesky little critters at the best of times. I have only ever flush fitted them and used watered down Aquadhere applied by fine brush to hold them in place before backing up with epoxy behind the panel.
You are not going to believe this, but I've done exactly the same thing with the bodies of my Coopers - in fact, twice.
The first time by accident - the second on purpose.
I want to fit ferules under the air intake cover of the Coopers... and sliced and sliced and sliced away at the "meat" from both sides... one slice too far and the top lifted up...
It then occurred to me, I could cut through the other side of the body at the same point - and remove the rear section.
I intend to take a pic of the rear in the raised position in situ on the model - it pivoted on a shaft across the rear of the chassis... hence the little plates and bolts visible on both sides.
I bought some "Milliput" yesterday - two part epoxy kneading putty... it is my intention when I re-fit the rear to use this with an additional cyano/fibreglass tape backing right across the rear.
I am also considering drilling and fitting a brass wire rod through both sides for additional strength..
Chin up, not so bad - take a peek and see if there's anything you might want to add with this option now available to you...
frats, Rosco
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Post by Ember on Jan 19, 2015 18:23:21 GMT -5
Unfortunately there's not a 'panel' that I can make use of on the Lotus. And more importantly/problematically there is painted surface to consider, so I'm not going near it with any form of superglue. At the moment I'm looking at using some gauze bandage and F560 to 'tape' the underside and then build up over the top of that with light cure putty. I can't do anything on the outside, because it's painted. Unfortunately I made the mistake of trying to tackle it yesterday and have made certain that it will be a visible repair rather than the invisible one that I might have achieved if I had stepped away as soon as it happened.
Such is life.
LOTUS = Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious
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Post by bob on Jan 19, 2015 18:45:33 GMT -5
Deeeeep Breath Lynne. I know you can do, this, you know you can do, this. Take a step back and use your process to find the solution. Your good at that sort of thing. Just a setback for you. I have every confidence that you will get it done to the best possible outcome. Bob
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Post by Stubbo on Jan 19, 2015 19:22:43 GMT -5
LOTUS = Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious I can see a whole new game here. BRABHAM = By Ron And Blackjack, Highly Advanced Masterpiece
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Post by rosco01 on Jan 20, 2015 0:34:30 GMT -5
Phil has replied to my suggestion re: "Milliput" putty, fibreglass tape and cyano - a bit concerned on added weight I might employ.
In r/c aircraft - we use cyano and fibreglass matt (woven fabric) very lightweight.. the matt makes the substance - the cyano is the setting and bonding agent. It is extremely useful for repairs and re-inforcement. Another little trick used in micro heli's is cyao and baking soda... think I've posted this one before...
Small steps - once you get the initial re-attachment... you can then look at shoring up the repair... yes, paint - from the 1:1 automotive world to miniscule modeling... it has always been the bug-bear of repairs.
This one might be closer to the truth... BRM = British Racing Machine
Sorry, Lynne - I'm playing with your thread...
frats, Rosco
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Post by Ember on Jan 20, 2015 3:15:47 GMT -5
BRM = Broken, Requiring Maintenance
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Post by rosco01 on Jan 20, 2015 15:43:56 GMT -5
Honda - Hang On No Data Available
frats, Rosco
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Post by Mark Huber on Jan 21, 2015 13:31:36 GMT -5
BRM = Broken, Requiring Maintenance You are playing with fire Madam. Beautiful Racing Machine
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