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Post by Ember on Jan 21, 2015 15:49:43 GMT -5
Hahaha... How about British...Running, Mostly.
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Post by rosco01 on Jan 21, 2015 16:14:02 GMT -5
Do I smell smoke...? Embs, look behind you....
frats, Rosco
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Post by EM on Jan 21, 2015 23:28:28 GMT -5
English Racing Antique Hobbled Requires Glue
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Post by Chris Wright on Jan 23, 2015 17:40:39 GMT -5
Ferrari: Fixed Every Road Race And Rarely Innovates
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Post by Ember on Jan 24, 2015 16:02:28 GMT -5
I think Chris wins.
On the Lotus front of fixing the rear... I tried some strips of gauze glued into place and covered with light cure putty for strength. But that has given the tail rather a droop. Not sure it'll hold.
I looked at drilling and pinning it, but there's just not enough thickness to do so.
I'll just have to have another think.
I've been told there is another shell heading my way, but I don't think I'll have enough time left when it arrives.
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Post by Chris Wright on Jan 24, 2015 16:41:13 GMT -5
Now try holding the tail of the car close to a heat source like a halogen bulb, it'll soften the resin and you should be able to straighten the droop out.
When building resin cars, it's always wise to have fine glass-fibre cloth, and thin super glue handy. Strengthen weak areas before you paint. (like the Lotus 24 tail-cone, or between the front axle openings). I've had quite a few snap in half in these areas. So I now liberally coat the inside of the shell with cloth and super-glue.
Sorry this happened Ember.
Keep the faith
Chris
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Post by David Lawson on Jan 25, 2015 3:21:21 GMT -5
Bad luck Ember, I can't add anything to the good advice you've already been given but I hope you can save this build as it was going so well and you're almost there.
David
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Post by Aurora on Jan 25, 2015 4:56:57 GMT -5
Yes, don't give up yet, you can save it!
It's difficult to make a useful suggestion. But I'm thinking that you might obtain a stronger repair by attaching a pre-stressed patch to the inside of the shell, as opposed to a flexible patch that hardens after application. The plastic piece is already pre-stressed, possessing its own structural rigidity, and will impart its inherent rigidity and support to the shell on both sides of the break.
Can you find a piece of rigid plastic? It could be modeling styrene. Since it is a Lotus, to be really green, fashion a patch from plastic waste, such as a plastic container or bottle cap.
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Post by Ember on Jan 27, 2015 17:53:54 GMT -5
Wow. Fastest service ever from Pendle. I now have a new Lotus shell in my hands. Now to decide which way to go.
The original was probably never going to be a great running car, I didn't really bother to trim any weight out of it. Actually, I just weighed the shell at 9.4g. Not as bad as I thought.
Do I hog out the new shell? Do I try another repair on the old? I used to be indecisive. Now I'm just not sure.
Decisions, decisions.
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Post by Ember on Jan 31, 2015 22:08:42 GMT -5
So, the decision has been made. I've set the broken shell aside for now. I'll work at removing the broken back end at some stage and strip the paint from the front, then use the alternate rear end to build a BRM powered Lotus 24.
For now it's a matter of remembering everything I did on the last she'll and repeating it. The obvious exception of course is the repeat performance of snapping the rear end. I have attacked the chassis with the soldering iron once again and dropped the mounting point for the rear suspension down a bit, so there should be no problems with it now. The chassis is looking a little messy after so many adjustments, but hopefully it will be the last time.
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Post by Ember on Feb 11, 2015 19:39:03 GMT -5
I've got the new shell all sorted and back up to decal stage (not fitted the mesh screens yet though). Everything went so much more smoothly this time around.
Just wondering about race numbers. The car is for the Tasman Cup but will be running under a number that differs from thodd that the actual car wore in the 5 or 6 races it ran. Would you add the race numbers as 'top dressing only or would you apply them permanently under the clear coat?
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Post by Chris Wright on Feb 11, 2015 19:51:45 GMT -5
I've got the new shell all sorted and back up to decal stage (not fitted the mesh screens yet though). Everything went so much more smoothly this time around. Just wondering about race numbers. The car is for the Tasman Cup but will be running under a number that differs from those that the actual car wore in the 5 or 6 races it ran. Would you add the race numbers as 'top dressing only or would you apply them permanently under the clear coat? Hi Ember, I'd apply the roundels, logo etc, and clear-coat it. Then apply the proxy numbers. When it is returned after the races, gently remove the numbers with masking tape, and apply authentic race numbers. Top dressing only!
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Post by Ember on Feb 11, 2015 20:22:47 GMT -5
Thanks Chris. I did feel that was probably the right way to go. Do you protect them with anything at all?
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Post by Ember on Feb 11, 2015 22:24:41 GMT -5
Hmmm... Lotus decal is a little large but it's the same size as the one that was with the kit. It in combination with the roundel makes the nose look way too short. It'll just have to do though.
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Post by Chris Wright on Feb 12, 2015 0:21:56 GMT -5
Hmmm... Lotus decal is a little large but it's the same size as the one that was with the kit. It in combination with the roundel makes the nose look way too short. It'll just have to do though. ' I didn't on the Eagle in last years GPdG, they only received a slight bit of easily repairable wear. Yeah that P.P. lotus logo is a little large, if you want accurate try Indycals Lotus 25 decals. Colour looks great bye-the-way.
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