|
Post by checkwriter on Apr 22, 2017 13:32:27 GMT -5
Now that that i have all four of the Poilcar F1 series i notice the MARCH is not as fast because it docent handle as well? Has anyone found this to be true? Is there a tune or fix to make them competitive? On any tire.
Tires for them: I tried everything and can't find a Silcone tire that gives you a nice contact patch? Any suggestions?
One last thing what are the 2 holes for on top of the body behind the mirrors?
|
|
|
Post by munter on Apr 22, 2017 15:57:21 GMT -5
One thing that I would like to question is the decision to keep the guide lead dimension quite short when there is plenty of space available.
|
|
|
Post by Andrew Rowland on Apr 22, 2017 17:05:34 GMT -5
Hmmm interesting questions.
Handling: My understaning was that we thought the March would likely handle better than the Lotus as quite a lot of time went into trying to give it body rock. I'm not sure this was entirely possible but haven't actually held a production car yet, unlike you guys it seems. We worked on having loose radius arms in production but again i'm not sure if thatnhas happened or they did indeed get glued in during production. Have you tried any tuning? Loosening off screws and the like? Is there something dragging on your car? At the outset the Lotus had some issues with the front axle for example?
Tyres: I personally don't use silicone. I use the F22's with the aluminium wheels. Are you saying all your Policar have this problem or is it unique to the March? I have not had this problem so guess it is down to the tyres you are using. I have used Paul Gage Urethane tyres which are very well made and come in a range of sizes that match exactly what these cars need. I have found no benefit in doing so, finding the F22's far more predictable on my short windey track.
Holes: It would appear that for commercial reasons a single body mould has been made to cover the two different cars due out this year which have different wing mirror stalk positions. Certainly a pity.
John: The guide position is identical in distance to the front axle as the Lotus. We are not interested in making cars that appear to get faster with each release which is the false arms war that other manufacturers have fallen into. If we moved the guide forward on this car it would almost certainly significantly outperform the Lotus on most club size tracks. That would make 3/4 of the cars currently available obsolete overnight! Clearly madness.... Keeping this the same was a conscious decision not any kind of wish to reuse parts or designs. All cars with have this same relationship so that only the wheelbase and track of the real car (scaled down of course) will make a difference to handling on any particular race track. Also driver preference will make a difference. It is likely that this is what is happening to Checkwriter above, the specific dynamics of the March are less well suited to his track than the Lotus.
I hope that helps, further questions welcome. Cheers Andi
|
|
|
Post by munter on Apr 23, 2017 2:55:24 GMT -5
Thanks for the explanation, Andy.
|
|
|
Post by checkwriter on Apr 23, 2017 13:41:20 GMT -5
Thanks Andi!
The Holes i kinda figured! But i do like the whole to oil motor!
Our club is starting to race these, and i bunch of us seem to think the same thing. I agree with you about the FF22, but club runs on silly, even though there faster they don't fit on the track right and can be snappy.
I pulled the wheels out a bit (1-2mm) and the car went from last to first! Not sure it will pass "Tech" buy the March was fast. I will try your tunning of loosing it up.
Regardless there all super dope and can't wait for more! FYI: i run on 3-4 different tracks a week. Wood and Plastic with the same results. The fun part will be getting it as fast.
|
|
|
Post by checkwriter on Apr 29, 2017 19:14:25 GMT -5
Changing the rears to AL set screw wheels helped a ton, made both models very close! What about about adding weight?
|
|
|
Post by Andrew Rowland on Apr 30, 2017 0:22:43 GMT -5
On the lotus you need about 1.5 to 2 grammes of lead between the front screws inside the body. The lead often needs to be champhered to fit the tiny space. Under the rear axle the same amount. Not sure about the march yet. Andi
|
|
|
Post by checkwriter on Apr 30, 2017 13:01:16 GMT -5
I like to use Tungsten Putty! Molds to your needs! Thanks !
|
|
|
Post by checkwriter on May 7, 2017 14:34:38 GMT -5
Is there a metal set screw FRONT wheel for the Policar F1?
|
|
|
Post by tedm01 on May 8, 2017 4:22:11 GMT -5
No,there isn't a metal front wheel-and we need one! TED...
|
|
|
Post by Andrew Rowland on May 8, 2017 8:54:28 GMT -5
Its on my bucket list. Let me talk to Maurizio this weekend at the UKSF! Remember that for the rtr cars you don't need one as it works just fine without... so we are talking about a pretty limited market! But i'll try again anyway Andi
|
|
|
Post by checkwriter on May 11, 2017 12:16:00 GMT -5
Also any plans on Later years in this F1 series? 1974-1982-ish.
|
|
|
Post by Andrew Rowland on May 11, 2017 12:39:38 GMT -5
No specific plans either way but unlikely to go beyond 1978. My interest wanes beyond that...... Andi
|
|
|
Post by checkwriter on May 11, 2017 17:49:26 GMT -5
M23 would be great! esp for club racing, no little parts to break! Up to 1078 is fine by me!
|
|
|
Post by tedm01 on May 11, 2017 18:23:51 GMT -5
I would certainly like to see a BRM P153 or P160. A Surtees TS7 would be nice,too. F1 cars from 1078 would be a bit thin on the ground I reckon..... TED....
|
|