Tamiya clear mist coat applied to a test decal several hours ago and it looks okay so far. I'll let it rest tonight.
I've applied the decals to the body. Used Microset and Microsol as I have for many many years, and as recommended by Pattos. Still wrinkled after 3 hours. I've never had decals take this long to smooth out, I'm hoping this long cure time is just a characteristic peculiar to Pattos and that they will eventually snug down to the surface.
UPDATE: After setting overnight, the decals are still wrinkled. Never had this happen before. I need to come up with a method to smooth these decals.
Post by David Lawson on Aug 16, 2015 1:55:58 GMT -5
When I use Pattos decals I also use Microset very sparingly and leave it to dry thoroughly, if they also need Microsol I again use it very sparingly on the first application and once dry if it still needs a further application I then use a slightly heavier application. Occasionally I have had the decals stay slightly wrinkled after the first couple of applications but they always snuggle down eventually.
I have also used Halfords and Tamiya lacquer on Patto decals and sprayed them in exactly the same way that Chris describes without harming them.
Nowadays I rarely lacquer my cars anyway as I prefer a natural paint finish as I think the appearance is better. I touch up paintwork from time to time and replace a decal here and there but this only takes a few minutes and is just routine maintenance to a slot car for me.
Have you considered using the Microscale Decal Fluid as your sealer prior to decal use? I've been using it lately with a flat brush. It seems to create a suitable protective barrier. Admittedly, I've not tried Patto's most recent decals.
Are you referring to Microscale Liquid Decal Film? I have not used this product. Apparently it restores old decals? I don't know if this product would have helped or not.
My problem at the moment is wrinkling of the decals, due to an application of a decal softener, specifically Mr. Mark Softer, which admittedly is not the brand recommended by Pattos. Pattos recommends Micro Set and Micro Sol, which I have used for years. However I am out of Micro Set and Micro Sol at the moment. I used Mr. Mark Softer, which is an analogous product, one that I have also used for many years with success and no adverse effects. It has always worked perfectly, until now.
I'll try to remove these decals and apply new decals. I feel like a petulant child - I'm ready to crush this car under a steam roller!
The decals I'm using do not specify that the decals must be sealed. My understanding is that the previous product required the application of a sealing agent prior to use. Apparently Pattos is using a new type of ink that does not require sealing prior to use. So I did not apply any sealing agent prior to applying these decals.
I'm scratching my head how to fix this. As you well know, paint jobs can take hours of preparation, not to mention the days or even weeks of waiting time to let the numerous coats of paint cure. If I can remove the decals, I may be able to save the car, but how to remove them without marring the paint?
Trying to finish this blasted car has been quite frustrating. It is just one problem after another!
Update: I was able to remove the decals using the setting solution as a solvent. Marring of the underlying paint resulting from the decal removal was minimal. However, the paint was marred by the wrinkles in the decals - weird. Some polishing of the paint has helped, but the finish isn't as smooth as it had been.
Pattos changed to a different printer system some time ago. It smells like a solvent ink jet system.
My newer decals from downunder seamed to be quite soft to solvents and other chemicals which behave like softeners. This is maybe the reason for the problem with the wrinkles (decals expanded after application) and also the reason for the sensitivity to coatings.
In any case the first layers of spray must be thin. Otherwise the decals will swallow up the solvent and lift off and leave the typical desaster behind. The best solution by the way will be 2 K lacquer systems where less solvents are needed.
Hi Thomas, thanks for the explanation. The 2K systems seem to be the current state of the art for model paint application. I'd like to try this some day.
The wrinkled decals have been replaced. Decal setting solution was used, but the decal solvent solution was not applied. The numbers are not wrinkled.
Clear coat will be applied today. First coats will be very thin. The clear coat did not adversely affect the decals in testing. I dislike using clear coat, but it seems to be a necessary evil for slot cars. Like David Lawson, I also think the natural appearance of a finish without clear coat is better. If this car was a static model, I'd leave it un-coated.
Post by Terry Newsome on Aug 19, 2015 17:48:42 GMT -5
I've been using Pattos decals for at least 10 years now, initially his decals were difficult to use and then he switched to the present type which were initially hard to use, being a little stiff and difficult to conform to curves, also the decal would not adhere to the surface, in some cases. Thankfully the quality improved as time went on.
My last batch of Pattos decals were his peel and stick type which are quite thin and, when applied, do not show the "edge" , for me these are a better result than in the past.
For what its worth, my latest lot of decals come from the monogram decal set which you can still get, these are mainly numbers and roundels but plenty good enough for the basic detail.
When I did use Pattos decals I very often used the Tamiya clear sealer with very few problems, like Chris said, a very light initial coat, then gradually building up on the subsequent follow up coats.