Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2016 7:27:06 GMT -5
Hi all, I have been commissioned to make a master of a W 25. I have sized drawings and cut the basic block of Ureol on the bandsaw as the weather has permitted some outside work.
If people are interested, I will go through the stages of hand carving a master and show them on here. Please say if there is any interest as it's a right faff putting pictures on here, via photobucket.
But, if you'd prefer your stuff to be the result of button pushing, please say so and I'll keep it all to myself.
Cheers, Martin
|
|
|
Post by David Mitcham on Feb 19, 2016 8:27:49 GMT -5
Hi Martin
I'd certainly be interested in seeing how you do it - particularly louvres, panel lines!
Best Regards
David
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2016 10:13:10 GMT -5
Well, the louvres on this one are all "innies", David. So there's two ways to do them. One is to cut'em in, one is to make them as a strip in styrene sheet and glue that in to a recess. Due to the large number of them on a W25, we'll be doing the latter.
I'm glad you're interested.
Off outside to photograph the first stages.
Martin
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2016 10:47:45 GMT -5
First, stick a cut out photo-copy on to the side of the block and cut out, then the same for the plan view. This can be changed around depending on shape in either view. That's the absolute basic item. Now transfer a few lines from the plans to the block using calipers, steel rule, whatever you prefer. The swoopy lines are easier than you might think to draw on as they are curves which start at a certain measurable width and then curve down to nothing (in the case of the headrest and the lower part of the body). If you can't train your eye to estimate these curves, you may as well give up now, as a good eye is an essential part of the process. And that goes for button pushers too! Now cut down to the height of those aerodynamic suspension covers with a junior hacksaw. Short, rapid, light cuts work better than heavy ones. Cut inwards to the first cut, then pop the piece off by twisting the saw. Repeat this process all round to get the aerodynamic suspension covers showing. The same process essentially is then used to get the headrest and the wider lower body shows. To some extent you need to use your good eye to make sure you don't over-cut. Of course you will do exactly that from time to time, but there ain't nuttn' can't be fixed, so keep your Milliput handy. More anon. Cheers, Martin
|
|
|
Post by ken on Feb 19, 2016 11:06:30 GMT -5
My favorite car. thank you for posting the photos.
|
|
|
Post by Aurora on Feb 19, 2016 11:06:51 GMT -5
Definitely interest here Martin - please post away. I need to make a body soon and am considering carving it, so your work will be closely watched!
Matt
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2016 12:34:45 GMT -5
More to come tomorrow, following a major chiselling tonight. To save on dust production, I chisel the lion's share of removal. Chisel shavings fall to the ground unlike dust. Of course later, it is unavoidable to use a file and some sandpaper, but not yet. Friday night on the telly is crap, so I'll get a fair bit done, along with Mel's Capri (nearing completion).
Martin
|
|
|
Post by old23 on Feb 19, 2016 13:00:24 GMT -5
I have always wondered how "they" do it. Thanks for posting a step-by-step of the process.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2016 14:03:27 GMT -5
You're welcome, old23. Gives me summat to do when I have a tea break. I don't follow any other forums any more and these are a wee bit quiet, which I guess proves that few actually make anything any more. The glorious power-cut WILL come and my chisels will still be sharp<G> Martin
|
|
|
Post by munter on Feb 19, 2016 16:39:59 GMT -5
Watching Martin..... I dont have a bandsaw but figure that first cutting out could be done other ways.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2016 17:58:08 GMT -5
The bandsaw is a Godsend, John, I must admit, but the cutting could be done with a coarse bladed hacksaw or a fretsaw. I paid just £12 for my bandsaw with a set of blades off ebay for £13. I've used it for everything since. Got it at a car boot fair! I rarely spend much on tools as i can find good tools at odd places.
Martin
|
|
|
Post by Howard Lynk on Feb 19, 2016 21:41:19 GMT -5
Hi Martin, I guess you've already seen some "hands raised" for interest... mine too! Looking forward to watching and learning.
Many thanks for taking the time to document the process.
cheers, Howard
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2016 3:39:10 GMT -5
Indeed, Howard. About as many as I'd hoped for realistically. More will be going up today when I've taken some more pictures, outside this time where the light should give me crisper shots.
Cheers, Martin
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2016 6:49:22 GMT -5
Above, there, I meant pics. going up, not hands!
I was just looking at the pictures of the W25 and wondering who will be the first (after me!) to foil this shell and slightly weather it. Damned if I'll use ghastly old silver paint. This baby had NO paint, whether you believe Neubauer's BS or not on the matter. The difficulty will be getting a non wheeled, unpolished look to the karrosserie. The English wheel isn't so-called for nothing. Continentals tended to bash and bang their work. We wheeled, which always puts a decent burnished finish to a piece (if you look after your wheels, ask me how I know!) I'm assuming that all German racers were the same finish?
Martin
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Feb 20, 2016 7:26:35 GMT -5
Now, when I say chisels, I mean it. Actually, just one chisel. A half inch Sorby. I make something of its manufacture, because I think it important. Just as Ruskin appealed that one should have nothing in one's home that wasn't useful or thought beautiful, one should have nothing in one's toolbox that isn't of the highest quality. When I rebuilt my 70 year old wooden canal boat, I went to a Midlands Boot Fair and paid £7 for 14 chisels. None of them was of a make lesser than a Footprint. Every one was Sheffield Cast Steel. Every one had a wooden handle and a brass or copper ferrule. The edge was irrelevant as I know how to sharpen a chisel (and a plane iron, come to that). Now, you could pay £7 for a piece of Chinese Monkey metal if you're not careful, yet I have the best, by just being careful and financially tight fisted! Here, you can see how I have started to remove excess Ureol with said Sorby. Basically, threepenny bit it. Next, thanks to a very trustworthy looking drawing cleverly found by the commissioning gentleman, I had a view on the suspension covers without the wheels in the way. When will "draughtsmen" realise that that we all know what a bloomin' wheel and tyre looks like, but not what lays behind them! And so, I was able to draw the shape on the lumps left by the above sawing technique. I'd pretty much guessed as much, but it so much better to have it confirmed. Pencilled on from the drawing and ready to be sawn out. You will find that the shape in both elevation and plan is nothing like the real thing. Plans can only ever be taken as a general guide. More a case of "Oh yeah? Prove me wrong, clever Dick"....unless you're using an Ettienne Becker Ferrari drawing, in which case, pay due obeisance at his knee. After the saw has been used on the aero covers, I may HAVE to break out the odd file. Cheers, Martin
|
|