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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 12:29:55 GMT -5
Had a look at some Pendle 19" wheels and tyres today when I had a quick meeting with Mel. Very nice if you like the fat look and ideal for rears on big old girls like the Mercs and the V-16 BRM, but you'd need RS's on the front. But what got me was the fact that they included chromed injection moulded knock ons...2,3 and no eared. I/M!! What did that mould cost, eh? And then I/M Minilite inserts for their 13" wheels. Who has the money for I/M stuff for the cottage industry?
I don't know what these all cost, but must say that the RS wheels won't be cheap, because the etching costs are getting crazy. Whatever you do for artwork, the etcher will always claim they had to do "set-up" and charge you for it at an hourly rate that I only wish I could charge for the infinitely more highly skilled modelmaking and original design. The only way to ensure reasonable costs is to average a lower cost by ordering more etched frets, so the unit cost is lower on average. That means lots of wheels need ordering.
Another problem is that we are offering 3 different spoke numbers per wheel. That begs the obvious question ...how many of each do we put on each fret? I do hope Colin can get this right as any venture like this deserves success.
Pendle's wheels are so much nicer than the rubbish they showed at Gaydon last year, but they're way too fat for any of the smaller cars that are long overdue. And have way too many spokes for those too.
Martin
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Post by dangermouse on Feb 23, 2016 15:59:44 GMT -5
RS wheels
Is Col doing some larger wheels? Will they be a bit skinnier than the Pendle ones?
Pendle has always offered I/M knock offs with all their wire wheels - either they did it way back when or they buy them from someone else who did the moulds for mass produced cars...
cheers David
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2016 16:40:25 GMT -5
David, yes Colin's wheels are 19", to equip all the pre-War cars. They are skinnier, for anything from an O-ring to about a 4mm (ish) wide tyre. There is a choice between 36, 48 and 60 spoke wheels. You choose which tyre you use. The appearance is of a rim-laced wheel, which, fortunately, goes with Pendle's fatter well-laced pattern. For big old stuff, you use their's on the back and Col's on the front. Perfect set for, say, the V-16 BRM, etc.
Cheers, Martin
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Post by ken on Feb 23, 2016 19:27:43 GMT -5
I found that if you narrow up the center rib of the PCS 19 inch wheels to 3mm you can use new PCS tires for their larger wheels. The tires that come on the 19 inch wheels are too low profile and too wide to look right on a pre-war car in my opinion. With taking the material off the back side of the 19 inch wheel you can go from a 7.4mm wide 23.5mm tall tire down to a 6.9 mm wide tire that is 24.5mm tall and has the narrower tread patch. The cut down Penelope Pitlane tires that I make to fit the Carrera streamliner front tires are 5 mm wide and 25mm tall and the PCS rear tires mounted on Penelope Pitlane wheels with the center rib narrowed to 3mm end up being 6.9mm wide and 26.75mm tall.
Ken
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2016 3:47:52 GMT -5
Ken, pretty much confirming what I've said, though I didn't have any dimensions to quote. I only saw a Pendle new version yesterday. What I first saw and heavily criticised at Gaydon last year bears no similarity whatsoever to what they have actually produced, which is a much better looking, if still oversized wheel, but it will look god on the back of a larger car with ours on the front.
Martin
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Post by munter on Feb 26, 2016 21:15:32 GMT -5
Can any one show me the Pendle 19"wheels on their site, please. I cannot see them?
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Post by ken on Feb 26, 2016 22:54:18 GMT -5
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Post by munter on Feb 26, 2016 23:28:16 GMT -5
Thank you very much, Ken. Dont know why I couldn't find them.
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Post by dangermouse on Feb 27, 2016 17:47:00 GMT -5
Martin - Are the RS Wheels available yet?
ken- any chance of some photos?
cheers David
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Post by Deleted on Feb 27, 2016 18:46:48 GMT -5
David, we understand that the etchers are now attacking the wheel etchings, Colin having confirmed order and paid for the first sheet. Naturally, I have to check that they fit the wheels we have and get some knock offs off to the casters.
Assuming all is well, I reckon they should be ready in about 10 days?
Cheers, Martin
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Post by Howard Lynk on Feb 27, 2016 19:38:03 GMT -5
I'm admiring the photo of your cars, and particularly the flat no glass finish... can you share how you achieve that? Thanks, Howard
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Post by ken on Feb 27, 2016 20:52:21 GMT -5
Thank you for the compliment Howard, I have looked at your stuff and it is top shelf work. I use all Tamiya spray paints on the bodies and after the decals get put on I shoot them with Tamiya clear flat part number TS-80. I also spray the wheels to knock the shine off them too, I use Tamiya clear metal primer item number 7061 which unfortunately has been discontinued by Tamiya. I then spray the wheels with the clear flat. The Alfa 12C in the middle of the left row is sprayed with Tamiya Semi Gloss clear TS-79. The jury is still out on whether I like it or not. The car on the top left is straight from the can just painted over grey primer TS-33 dull red.
Ken
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Post by Howard Lynk on Mar 3, 2016 18:29:48 GMT -5
Ken, many thanks for sharing the details of paints you use. Your paint work just looks really well done, and as I mentioned, I do prefer the flat no-gloss look. The only paints brand available in my area as far as I can find so far, are the Testors line. I have been using automotive paints sometimes, and just kind of messed up the P-Wagen I have been working on spraying when it was a bit too cold... I got a nice grainy, egg shell finish to try and work around.
I will find a source for the Tamiya paints online. As I just mentioned to Marlon in another post, I have a special relationship with model paints now 60+ years in the making. Impatience is an important part of my technique!
Anyway, thanks again for the paint details, I'm looking forward to trying them out.
regards, Howard
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Post by Chris Wright on Mar 3, 2016 19:19:12 GMT -5
Ken, many thanks for sharing the details of paints you use. Your paint work just looks really well done, and as I mentioned, I do prefer the flat no-gloss look. The only paints brand available in my area as far as I can find so far, are the Testors line. I have been using automotive paints sometimes, and just kind of messed up the P-Wagen I have been working on spraying when it was a bit too cold... I got a nice grainy, egg shell finish to try and work around. I will find a source for the Tamiya paints online. As I just mentioned to Marlon in another post, I have a special relationship with model paints now 60+ years in the making. Impatience is an important part of my technique! Anyway, thanks again for the paint details, I'm looking forward to trying them out. regards, Howard Hi Howard, I think the Auto Union looks pretty good, but I did notice the grainy finish. Heat the can of spray paint in a bowl of hot water for about 5-10 minutes befoe spraying. it works wonders. Keep the paint inside the house in a warm place over-night befoe spraying. Water should be hot, but not so hot that you can't put your hand in it. This works especially well with Tamiya paints. You'll find you can a couple of mist coats, then 3-4 wet coats without the paint laying on too thick. No detail will be obscured. Use this trick in the summer too, the hotter the day, the better the finish, but you have to be quick. Chris
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Post by munter on Mar 3, 2016 21:34:57 GMT -5
Mine too...but Tamiya TS paints are good for that.
or so hot that you cannot hold the can
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