Post by David Mitcham on Jun 9, 2016 13:39:50 GMT -5
Thank you Stewart, Stu and Matt. I'm not sure I have any particular skill in constructing the suspension on my cars - patience and trial and error sums up my technique! Having seen yours builds on this Forum I believe they are the equal of, or better than, anything I've produced.
I use a Weller soldering gun (which has served me well for many years) and I find it works well in most circumstances, provided I don't dwell on the parts when soldering them; having the pieces tinned and a good acid flux really helps. Needless to say a good jig and a jeweller's honeycomb block are vital for keeping everything square and to accurate dimensions. I haven't tried the aluminium foil technique but will do; I occasionally use heat sinks. The material of the Policar chassis and Andi's front end seem quite resistant to heat provided one is quick!
The rear uprights are brass oblong tube 1/8'' wide with small pieces of tube soldered to the top and bottom to locate the suspension links and the radius rods. The oblong tube is drilled oversize for the axle hole and filed near as possible to the shape of the real one. For the front uprights on the BRM I've tried something different by using aluminium cut and filed to represent shape of the originals. I then drilled holes in the upright (with rod glued into the holes) to mount the suspension arms which are a mixture of nickel silver tube and, for the bottom A arms, brass strip and NS tube and rod.
What a marvellous looking car, David, and all the more special because you carved it yourself. My only quibble is with the driver figure. I'm sure Dr. Brooks never drove the BRM with a posture quite so supine, but I understand the compromises of working around the FF-050 motor. It does look like you will have another serious contender for the Concours d'Élégance Gold Medal, and I'm hoping your P48/57 is more competitive on the track as well.
Post by David Mitcham on Jun 28, 2016 10:16:36 GMT -5
Thank you Andi and Stewart. Yes, you're right Stewart, the driver position is not 'correct' and too horizontal; unfortunately a more upright position would have meant no legs and not much body for Dr Brooks plus some sort of motor cover up! It goes well enough on my Ninco track which is quite twisty and it is certainly quicker than last year's P578. Its slightly tail happy - I think the Professor Motor guide may need sliming down a little as I suspect its causing some 'drag'.
Post by David Mitcham on Jul 13, 2016 14:36:26 GMT -5
Almost there! The body is complete now after a set back with the paintwork but a bit of a rub down and a clear coat fixed it. All I need to do now is attach the body to the chassis, fix Tony Brooks in position and give it a final shake down on the track. It looks like it will weigh in at about 60 grams.
Post by David Mitcham on Jul 14, 2016 15:08:52 GMT -5
Here's today's progress - on its wheels, driver aboard and tested. Tony still looks a bit too horizontal but its the best I can do without removing his lower half - using the Policar motor pod and gearbox means the motor is a bit further forward than with a conventional set-up. All that remains is the decals - which I have done but I'm waiting for them to dry before taking final photographs to be posted tomorrow.
Post by David Mitcham on Jul 15, 2016 13:50:09 GMT -5
Its finished and here are the photos with the decals in place. Both my cars for the VRAA are now being packed up and accompanying me to Canada next week - we're off to see my eldest daughter - where they will be posted on to Stewart. Special thanks are due to John Warren for the excellent resin casting he made of my carving, without his expertise this car wouldn't exist!
Post by Andrew Rowland on Jul 28, 2016 23:23:48 GMT -5
Sorry missed this question.... Can't remember off hand, but road clearance with 20mm rear wheels was designed to be 1.65mm. If you know the motor height you can work it out... I am on holiday right now with no access to any slot car stuff. Cheers Andi