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Post by Andrew Rowland on Sept 10, 2016 0:14:12 GMT -5
Hi Guys
I've never done this although i've seen many of you do so...
On the Cosworth 4WD I 3D modelled all the rivets only to sand them all off..... yeah silly right?
Anyway, wanted to know what waterslide rivets people use / recommend. I aim to apply them before the primer / basecoat for which I will use Tamiya White Primer, so anyone who has done that would be good to hear from!
Thanks and best wishes Andi
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Post by David Mitcham on Sept 10, 2016 13:52:12 GMT -5
Hi Andi I've used the Archer one's www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html. For me it works best if you apply them after a first coat of primer with a further think coat of primer after they are thoroughly dry. I've tried them on top of the primer but found the black colour showed through the top coat - but maybe that was my faulty spray painting. I have applied them before priming but then there is a risk they 'disappear' under the layers of paint - again that could be down to my bad technique. Best Regards David
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Post by Chris Wright on Sept 10, 2016 14:56:41 GMT -5
Hello David,
Which sheet did you use from the Archer collection? Those of us with Massers just gotta know?
Chris
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Post by Aurora on Sept 12, 2016 2:49:07 GMT -5
Another fascinating engineering project Andi - I can't wait to see this wild contraption finished!
I've been using the Micro Mark HO-scale 3D rivets. You get two sheets of rivets in the pack. Each sheet contains several different rivet patterns: lines, circles, semi-circles. The sheet also includes some mesh patterns and what may be weld lines.
I've used different application techniques - under-primer, over-primer, under-color, over-color.
I am ambivalent about using these rivets. My final finishing step is to polish and wax the surface of a car. But these rivets can hinder the polishing. It is still possible to polish, but it is difficult to polish the rivet heads without removing paint. Of course, if you do not polish, then it isn't a problem.
IMO, when using these rivets, it is a case of less is more. The suggestion of rivets in a few strategic spots looks better than applying them to every single spot in which they appear on the real car.
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Post by Andrew Rowland on Sept 12, 2016 7:45:55 GMT -5
Thanks Matt I too have seen those rivets and they seem far cheaper than the ones David mentions...
I think I wil try them.
I do not polish cars, or at least have not done so yet. After the gloss goes on I am very nervous about any more processes!
Cheers Andi
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Post by David Mitcham on Sept 12, 2016 13:10:48 GMT -5
Chris, I have used AR88087, AR88091, AR88002 for rivets, and AR88022 for panel/weld lines.
Andi, Beware the shipping costs from Micro Mark - they were twice those of Archer to the UK and as far as I can see the decal sheets are much the same price - although the MM ones may be bigger.
Best Regards
David
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Post by Andrew Rowland on Sept 13, 2016 7:57:39 GMT -5
Indeed I went with Archer David thanks. Sheet AR88087.
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