I am working away on my RA273 and having some issues with figuring the best way to do the suspension details fro the rear and front units. So can anyone offer some ideas or experience on creating these parts. My car will be the first one run in a VRRA type event for the 1967 GP season . So to get to this level of detail is a bit intimidating. I have tried some ideas , but they either look bad or adversely affect the running of the car. Some Guidance would be great. Thanks in advance. Bob
Post by David Mitcham on Jul 6, 2017 14:26:26 GMT -5
I can offer some advice but the best way is to look at some of the posts describing detailed builds - there are several under proxy series threads and those of master builders such as David Lawson and Andi Rowland. However you first need to decide on how detailed and realistic you want the suspension detail to be. A reasonable representation can be achieved through bending pieces of thin wire or brass rod for the radius rods and upper and lower links and soldering it o the chassis/gluing it to the body. At the other end of the scale some of us make the uprights out of brass tube or aluminium, drill it and attach soldered rod and tube so that almost appears to be a working system - you need very fine drill bits, sliding fit micro tube and rod, preferably chassis jig and a lot of patience to achieve this. I used to use brass rod and tube but this needs painting so now I use nickel silver rod and tube which doesn't. For the springs and dampers I also use rod and tube and a commercially available small springs www.springmasters.com/compression-springs/61-66.html and solder them to the chassis/suspension parts. One of Andi Rowland's threads shows how to do this.
I'll be posting some more photographs of my Canada proxy Ferrari 312 build next week so you can see the end result of how I do it.
Thanks David for the tips and link. I would like to go as far as my abilities will take me being a first attempt at this level of detail. I have some good reference material for structure and shape etc, and tried looking at a number of builds here , but so many pictures have been retracted by photbucket. The dimensions of the wire etc is an important factor to me for radius rods etc. I dont mind the efforts of bending and soldering but ultimately the finished product must look to scale. Thanks again David Bob
I have found that using thinner wire than scale look better. I tend to use wire around 0.7 mm to 1 mm for suspension. If you use copper wire you can tin it so it is silver.
An alternative to tinned copper or brass is nickel wire - nice silvery finish, won't discolor and is easy to bend and solder. It usually comes on a spool - use an old trick to straighten: cut a length, clamp one end in a vise, grasp the other end with pliers and pull until you feel a little "give" - it will be straight.
Post by maxrossmassler on Aug 25, 2017 20:37:13 GMT -5
I like to use stainless steel microtube (lots available at McMaster Carr Co in USA, don't know what its like to order from across the oceans). You can put steel guitar string lengths inside to stiffen the lengths and join the pieces. I've built 3 cars this way and I still like to do it but it is very time consuming (just ask Stewart/Old23!!). I have a lot of trouble soldering at this level of build, so the sliding wire-into-tube joints done with Loctite works better for me. And tube tends to stay straighter than wire. The suspensions on my cars are robust enough to survive pretty bad crashes, but I still cringe heavily at the thought of it.
Re stainless steel: I keep spring tempered stainless steel in several sizes on hand. I like it for chassis building but it does require a little more care in soldering than ordinary steel or brass. I have found that by using "Sta-Clean" liquid flux (comes with the little packets of Sta-Brite solder, I can use both Sta-Brite and my other favorite solder, TIX to good effect.