paint matching ?

[macp]

Paint matching for cars of a certain age has always been a bit of a grey area for the scratch builder.
in modern times the corporate image has taken over, so it is possible to find the exact paint applied to the
cars.
Back in the day this was not an issue, almost all manufactures just got hold of a supply of the national
color and sprayed the car,
Remembering the paint used was cellulose and thinners, mixed to what ever the sprayer thought would
do the job and not the modern base coat and lacquer, a more accurate and easy to match way of giving
the car a pretty finish.
then there's the question as to what primer {if any } was used, this would alter the finished appearance
of the car
Remembering that these cars where not subject to the glare of the modern  media, it was not an issue
as to the finish , in face it was most rare to find color images to compare one from another.
another factor comes into play when looking at old photographs, these being, where filters used, what camera
took them, was the film old stock, it goes on and on.
so to get the exact color is almost impossible.
This situation came home to me when i worked for the Rubery Owen company, the then owners of BRM.
We where moving into another building, while clearing out some old rubbish we found a tarpaulin covering
a mound of something or other, removing the cover we found a chassis and bodywork of a stack pipe BRM,
minus engine, plus a nose cone for another car {unknown type} and many mechanical parts.
the nose cones of these cars had dents in them, what was noticeable was the paint was only one layer deep
plus there was no primer applied , this was in the mid/late 60,s, not too long ago
So to worry ones head as to the EXACT tint is a non starter in my eyes.
cheers
Mac P
 

[Phil Kalbfell]

Mac I have to agree, being in the print industry for most of my working life I have seen the Colour variations from the negative to printed pic. The variations were unbelievable.
I pick a paint Colour that I think reflects the original car and go with that..

[EM]

I quite agree. There is an often unrecognized division in the modeling world - difference between creating a convincing impression of the prototype and making a precisely scaled replica. These may or may not coincide. As an example of the former: There once was (and may still be) a disagreement in the "O" gauge modeling community. The general standard is 1/4" = 1'. It is, however argued that, based on the track gauge measurement, the correct scale is 17/64" = 1'. The proponents of the latter rule argue that the 6% difference, especially in the case of vintage steam, better models the massive impression that these locomotives offered.

By the same token, I have seen models (slot cars) that were well built and neatly but not extravagantly detailed that presented a more convincing feel of reality than some modeled nearly to the clevis pins on the steering arm.

Having had some (long, long ago) training in art, I tend to come down on the "impression" vs "micrometer" side. I look for a color that will strongly remind me of the original - as best as I recall it or from the sense gathered from photos. (One impression I do recall - cars of a certain origin - usually red - often looked as if they had been painted with the broom used to seep up the shop floor)

Accordingly my painted locker contains 2-BRG (one dark, one very dark). 3 reds, 3 blues - French and Cunningham/Cobra bright and Rob Walker/Ecurie Ecosse dark - a yellow and a white. Haven't done an Aston yet - metallic finishes don't "scale" well in general

EM

[macp]

EM,i must agree about "scaling" metallic paint, if we are truthful it just cant be done, the "metallic "
element of the paint can not be reduced to !/32 scale, its always going to be 1/32 " too large.
I have seen some superb models { in my mind } ruined by applying this kind of paint, im thinking of Graham
Poultons Aston Martin models just because the full sized car had metallic paint.
If you stand next to a metallic painted car, the finish is visible, take a few pases backwards and the car seems
to have a plain paint finish .
But again with any modeling aspect "its you car" so you do what pleases you.
Mac p

[EM]

It occurs to me that one might simulate a metallic finish by laying down some Alclad aluminum lacquer ( polished or semi gloss?) and then overcoating with thin or semi-transparent color coats. The next time I have occasion to use Alclad, I'll spray up a test panel and try it.

EM

[Phil Kalbfell]

I agree that metallics are hard to replicate in scale.
I have had reasonable results by applying a silver base then adding the Colour over the top in very thin layers until I get what I think is the right effect,mush as Al has suggested with the Alcaeus.
But I use a gray silver called Platinium as it seems to work better.