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Post by Mark Huber on Sept 24, 2013 10:06:40 GMT -5
Realizing that it is never too early for me to start on a build, it is time to begin work on my 2014 VRAA car. (the deadline for getting the 2013 VRAA cars to Ken is at the end of this month). Since I've chosen the color red as one of my 2014 themes, I intend to build this car: Now which shell? The Monogram is too big. The Penelope Pitlane shell is really a 1512 with an odd rear engine cover, I already chopped off the tail of the Greenman Ferrari shell and the Dave Jones Ferrari is an Aero with a V8 engine. That leaves the vintage Supershells body. (Thank you Charles). However, that shell is missing the impressive nose ducts of the 158s from mid 1964 on, and I fear what will happen to the fragile styrene when I start surgery. Chris has already walked me through a tutorial over the phone. I'm going to practice on a couple of old styrene shells of various makes before I break the Ferrari (I wasn't born yesterday!). But if anyone has some advice as to technique, tools AND pictures, all would be appreciated.
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Post by Phil Kalbfell on Sept 24, 2013 17:00:06 GMT -5
Mark If you make a mistake with the Super shells body I have moulded it and can make a resin version for you. I have found that the styrene on my body is still in great condition.
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Post by Aurora on Sept 25, 2013 1:13:31 GMT -5
Mark, here are some materials and tools I use to make shells. Mostly common model making items. Body structures are made of various materials, such as styrene, nylon, etc., and reinforced with steel-filled two-part epoxy. Or CA and baking soda. When re-contouring a body panel, such as you may be doing when you remake the nose of your Ferrari, I also use this method. I add a structural material, such as styrene, and then reinforce with a structural adhesive. I only do this because I think that the part will have greater structural integrity than if I were to use only a filler material. I don't know if it is actually any stronger or not. Some tools. Making the bodies is very messy, I try to remember to wear a mask. This is a piece of very tough nylon used to support a load bearing piece. The cutting tool is very useful. A variety of materials. The side panels are made from a piece of industrial conduit I found in the trash. Some modelers putty is visible in a non-structural role. Air filters are some type of resistor I think, again found in the trash. The body post is a lollipop stick, attached with epoxy. This shows a piece of styrene grafted onto the underside of the bridge of the nose. I had cut away so much material that it was pretty flimsy, so it needed some reinforcement. There is a whole bunch of styrene shown here, creating new structures. Very little of the original shell material remains. Filler material and adhesives are epoxy, CA, and baking soda.
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Post by nuvolari on Oct 4, 2013 14:11:27 GMT -5
...Body structures are made of various materials, such as styrene, nylon, etc., and reinforced with steel-filled two-part epoxy. Or CA baking soda.... Hi Aurora, I've experimented with a lot of materials, but baking soda is new to me. I presume that you're not going to put it in the oven. ;D But I'm very curious to know how exactly you use the material, for what you use it, and how good you personally find the material to use? Perhaps some detailed photos of the used material would be intresting, if possible? Cheers, Danny
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Post by Aurora on Oct 7, 2013 2:38:16 GMT -5
Hi Danny,
I use baking soda in combination with cyanoacrylate (CA). The combination forms an adhesive filler. It is useful for filling gaps. It adds structural rigidity and strength.
To use, I usually apply a small amount of CA to the joint. Then I add a small amount of baking soda. I shake off the excess baking soda. Then I add some more drops of CA. The two combine to form a strong hard joint almost immediately. The reaction releases heat, and very irritating poisonous vapors. Do not breathe in these vapors!
If I want to build up the joint or structure, I may add more layers of CA and baking soda. It cures rapidly, so you can grind and file the material after a short time.
I'll takes some photos and post.
Cheers, Matt
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