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Post by Aurora on Sept 19, 2014 5:32:23 GMT -5
This will be a 1968 B.R.M. P133. It will be built to comply with GPd Garagista proxy rules. Betta & Classic fiberglass shell "B.R.M. V12" Attachments:
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Post by Aurora on Sept 19, 2014 8:06:36 GMT -5
Pic 1 Radius rod cleats have been removed. The height of the body has been reduced by around 2 mm. Pic 2 The curve of the tub. It will be reshaped into a rounder profile. Pic 3 The bottom edge of the tub which requires augmentation.
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Post by Aurora on Nov 22, 2014 13:09:40 GMT -5
The Classic shell is closer in resemblance to the top drawing. it will be modified to look more like the bottom drawing. The shell will be reduced in width by 4mm. The nose cone will be reworked to resemble the drawing on the right.
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Post by David Lawson on Nov 23, 2014 3:17:08 GMT -5
This will be very interesting to follow.
I know it is extremely early days and you look like you will completely re-work the shell anyway but I notice you have filled the duct just in front of the cockpit. This was in place during the early part of the season.
David
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Post by Aurora on Nov 23, 2014 3:39:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the reminder David. That NACA duct will be relocated further aft, closer to the cockpit. The position of the duct on the Classic shell was forward of the axle center-line. To match the drawing that I'm using for reference, I'll cut a new duct that will be roughly centered over the front axle.
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Post by Brian on Nov 29, 2014 8:55:41 GMT -5
Love how your reworking the classic shell.
Gonna keep an eye on your build.
Cracking start.
Cheers.
Brian
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Post by Aurora on Feb 20, 2015 3:17:15 GMT -5
The nose opening will be reworked into a flatter, wider shape as depicted by the paper patterns. A new leading edge will be added to the opening. The black piece is tough engineering nylon. The original fiberglass nose leading edge piece cut off. The nylon piece will be attached and shaped. The internal channel on the tires is a bit wider than the center rib on the aluminum wheel, resulting in excessive side to side play. These nylon rings were glued onto the rims to fill the gaps. After grinding them down to size, all the adhesive was ground away as well, so now they simply slide loosely onto the rim Mock up to check proportions These little aero devices are steel pieces inserted through slits cut into the shell The body has been reduced in size to match the drawing. It now fits snugly around an FF motor. The original fiberglass motor detail is now too large in relation to the rest of the car, so I'll make new engine detail. This brass piece was going to be one of the front suspension uprights. It had an internal flaw in the brass that was exposed while sawing out the rough shape.
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Post by Aurora on Feb 20, 2015 13:25:10 GMT -5
Love how your reworking the classic shell. Gonna keep an eye on your build. Cracking start. Cheers. Brian Thanks Brian. I didn't realize it before starting, but the end result will be quite different from the Classic shell.
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Post by Chris Wright on Feb 20, 2015 17:29:29 GMT -5
Matt, Excellent work, it's beginning to look the part. Much slicker than the original. Those air pockets on Charlie's shells are a biach aren't they.
Great start,
Chris
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Post by Aurora on Feb 21, 2015 9:42:18 GMT -5
Chris, Yes, those air pockets are vexing. I missed a few that were only revealed when I was smoothing the surface in preparation for a coat of primer. My fault - I never used a fiberglass shell before. Now I know that the first step, as recommended by David Lawson, will be to inspect the shell for air pockets.
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Post by David Lawson on Feb 21, 2015 10:46:47 GMT -5
With these "Classic" shells I always hold them up to the light to see the pockets, they appear very clearly as much lighter patches and you can clearly see the outer edge of each pocket.
As I always say these shells are so cheap and it only takes me about 30 to 40 minutes to repair quite a few pockets so they are still extremely good value for money.
David
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Post by Aurora on Feb 21, 2015 13:06:34 GMT -5
David, thanks for the tip about holding the shell up to a light. I'll do that next time.
This Classic has been a good value and I look forward to using them again. One property I really like is the hardness of the resin. It can be shaped to hold a very fine crisp edge.
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Post by f143 on Feb 22, 2015 0:05:21 GMT -5
Just looking at your wheels, tyres and insert, are they Dart products? They are looking really authentic. Thanks Nigel
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Post by Aurora on Feb 22, 2015 4:48:54 GMT -5
Thanks Nigel, the wheels are C.B. Design. Tires are Paul Gage. Inserts are turned-down wheels off a Scalextric McLaren MP4-16. They aren't exact but the closest approximation I could find. In period photos I've seen at least two designs of wheel used on the P133. One type has an appearance similar to the 5 spoke Campagnolo design on the Ferrari 312. Another type is the 12 spoke design I'm using here.
What are you using?
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Post by f143 on Feb 22, 2015 21:30:58 GMT -5
I am using 5 star as it is the Rodriguez Spanish GP car number 9, but I really like the 12 spokes, team mates again, Nigel
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