It was such a glorious day here today I decided to get the airbrush out and do some under colour on the Lotus. The switch to a good Badger airbrush means learning all over again.
I had a bit of an argument with myself and very nearly grabbed black to undercoat for Scuderia red for Nino Vaccarella. Having recently done some detailing work for a 275P I've developed a bit of a fondness for the school principal turned rave driver. But at the last minute I diverted to the yellow as per the original plan. I must say, the car looks pretty awful all in Lotus yellow.
You are leaving me in your dust, Ember - I'm nowhere near looking at paint. My two chassis' are taking shape - but I've struck hurdles with the front bracket... just peeking back at how you worked yours in this thread.
Yes, can appreciate that the best part of the yellow is yet to be covered up.
Busy time of year - patiently waiting for pix on your progress.
We have colour! Tried to get a bit of an average between the shades in the colour photos posted earlier. Always an interesting task to try to allow for the colour fade and shift of photographs, particularly old ones. Add to that the fact that every particular type of film has its own colour cast. And don't think that things have simplified any with the introduction of digital photography. If anything it has made things infinitely more difficult for colour matching. But then, you guys already know that.
As I mentioned earlier, the paint is a two stage process with the infamous Lotus yellow as the undercoat. Not really my favourite colour. I'm a bit fussy when it comes to yellows. Once that was dry (in about 5 minutes because I used cheap water based acrylics) I sprayed a clear green candy/ink over the top.
The finish isn't quite as good as I'd like. There is a little bit of 'watermelon' striping which isn't obvious in the photos. This is because I used a clear colour while I'm still coming to terms with the very fine trigger on the new airbrush. It would have been much easier to get a better paint finish had I mixed the paint and applied a simple opaque colour. However, the use of clear gives a much richer colour. It also allowed me to build up the green intensity slowly until I was (mostly) satisfied with it.
And the reason for using cheap water based paints? If I make a mistake I can simply wash the fresh paint off with soap and warm water if I'm quick. Even if I'm not so quick it doesn't take a great deal of scrubbing to get things back to the primer coat and start again. Of course, the downside is that the surface can't be sanded and is quite soft until it receives the layers of clear coat to protect it.
Today I'll do some detailing with a good old fashioned hairy stick or two before shooting a couple of layers of protective Tamiya clear.
For now I'm off to Google to see if I can find some rear view shots of Lotus 24s to help my paint detailing.
That is looking good Lynne, I certainly hope my attempt will be half as good as yours. The body , the suspension, the driver , the detail , all really good stuff. Looking quite forward to the finish. Bob
The stripes on Mike's helmet (he's currently standing in for Mr Brabham) were done with a 5/0 sable brush. This particular Mike Spence head was a reject from a collection that I did for Mark Huber's current project.
Not sure about the 'Ember' touch. Not much room for flowers and chocolates in a GP car.
Not really Ross, just wherever you can get them. I was using my local art supply, but I bought the last batch from the UK. I tend to go through them quite quickly working on figures. The tips tend to give up the ghost and bend. But I find the genuine sable more resilient than taklon. Taklon would probably be suitable for most people and it's certainly a lot cheaper. If you get the opportunity, look for a good length in the fibres. 'Liner' or 'rigger' brushes will be longer than 'detail' ones and are great for pin striping. I find that brushes sold from modeling suppliers tend to be too short and tend to be round tip rather than pointed. You definitely need something with a good point.
For fine work and figures I use 0, 000 and 5/0. And just the right amount of coffee.
Thank you Chris. I was a little worried it might be too vibrant.
Keep the opening on the SRP motor facing up, I believe. It has some magnetic down force with opening faced down. I cant say for certain whether Fullam Park is Magna braid or not. In any case, if you testing on scaley or ninco or similar track, your cars' pace might be a bit misleading if motor opening is downward.
Thank goodness you asked that question, Ember - I was about to - David's build shows it with the opening up.. and I was going to quiz him on it... now both you and I know why it goes to the top - thanks, Slo..