Post by Andrew Rowland on Jun 24, 2016 10:36:34 GMT -5
The Brabham is not the easiest conversion. Probably the most complex is the March 761 and the Mclaren M23 but the Brabham is also more complex than the others which are realtively easy. Plenty to choose from now! Cheers Andi
b) Policar parts numbers necessary to complete the gearbox: PC-H01 - motor mount (slim line without outrigged screw positions) PC-PPA01 - set of bushings PC-PGS8018/17/16 - rear axle with gear. note choose either of the 18/17/16 denotes which gear you prefer. standard cars come with the 17 tooth version. PC-PGI2516-PL - crown gear and spacers PC-PPI429015 – pinion (be careful using equivalents as these are specifically sized) PC-H04 - motor mount screws - The gearbox has a unique screw fixing so you will need these whatever motor you wish to use (see also below). PCH06 – thin headed screws for this type of motor mount
c) Policar parts numbers I suggest but that might be interchangeable: PC-PMX01 - motor. Note that the Policar gearbox has a single central top screw fixing position and so if you don't use this motor make sure yours has this hole! Also potential club rules might legislate for a single motor formula in due course. PC-PPA02 - rear axle stopper - you may choose to use other types but be careful with sizes and what will fit. PC-H05 - gearbox to chassis fixing screws - these are the correct size but other Slot.it (and potentially other) types will also fit.
(Please note that several builders have told me they are buying a complete Lotus 72 to use the parts as it is cheaper. Whilst that is a good idea for the other models this is the first model that uses this slim motor mount and the Lotus 72 one is different.)
d) Other parts to complete the build: Rear wheels and tyres I would use the Ostorero Lotus 79 wheels and tyres as I have them and because they are round and grippy. The RS Scalextric replacement aluminium hubs available through Pendles are a good option as the hub in this case does not get in the way or look too bad. Tyres to fit are available from various producers. The model shown in the photos uses the Fly type off the donor car. The design parameters are that they should be about 21mm dia. and 14-16mm wide. to match the ones on the model. Front wheels and tyres: The chassis is specifically designed around the Slot.it WH1050-Al type wheel. Any of the 15.8x8.2 range of wheels should fit. I have found that the Slot.it 1088 mould tyre looks best on these and gives the right diameter.
e) Front axle Any normal 3/32 axle should work but it must be at least 52mm long.
f) Guide etc. The Policar range is designed to use the Slot.it CH85 screw in pick up. Others may fit to your choice. Wire. Any normal slot racing type wire Braids (thin as possible suggested). Eyelets or grub screws to your choice.
g) A donor vehicle Williams FW08C by Fly. Actually you will only need the body (with driver etc.) and the rear spoiler so if you can get these as spares then do so.
2. The Conversion:
a) Unscrew the 4 body screws underneath and the screw under the gearbox cover at the rear.
Remove the chassis and put it in the spares bin. Retain the body mounting screws for re use. Retain the rear spoiler and body.
c) Cut off the front most mounting screw point back to the second screw point as shown in this photo:
d) Cut the top part (we will call it the Bridge) from the lower chassis part by cutting the little linking pillars so you get two parts like the photo. Clean up the pillars so the surfaces are nice and flat.
e) Cut out the bottom of the driver seat as seen here:
Take care to leave the body mount position intact.
As you can see the cutting required is quite minimal.
f) Assemble the chassis to the gearbox with the front screw only. Position the bridge and use the thin headed screws to screw the gearbox to the bridge itself. (Note that my prototype does not have the thin head screws but larger normal ones so the heads stick out the bottom… NOT recommended).
g) Assemble the chassis with all the other parts; guide, wires and front axle.
The front wheels are fixed on with their grub screws through a small ole in the base of the front suspension. This hole tends to close up during printing and may need to be slightly opened out. A 1mm diameter hole should be sufficient for this.
I managed to ease off the front wheel inserts and glue them into the Slot.it hubs.
h) Screw the chassis to the top body to for the complete rolling car.
Take care not to use too long screws otherwise you will damage the bodywork as they pierce up through the mounting pillar. I did this as you can see in the photos…..
i) Cut the rear spoiler mount as shown:
j) Screw the rear spoiler on through the bottom of the gearbox hole. DO cut this thread slowly by easing it back and forth to avoid the potential to split either part.