I have a couple questions on Dan BT7.... Can anyone tell me if it run with the 13" or 15" Wheels? From the Photos Ive seen it looks to have run with the 13" on the rear but maybe 15" on the front. Jack ran the #20 car at the same meet and it looks to have run the 13" front and rear. His front wheels look different to Dan's fronts. Always a bit tricky to tell the difference from photos. Also I have read account primotipo.com/tag/brabham-bt7-climax/ of Dan's Bt7 (F1-1-63) being 2" longer in the wheelbase and accounts of it being longer in the cockpit to accommodate the tall Dan Gurney. Not that Im chasing any extra guide lead length or anything... its just that I wouldnt like to see Mr. Gurney sitting too far out of the cockpit you see.... Would appreciate if anyone could shed some light on these....
Thank you Stewart, I stumbled across this site a week ago. Up until then I have read that the F1-1-63 BT7 was built with an extended cockpit but not heard of the extended wheelbase for Mr. Gurney. All other reference to specifications on the Brabhams wheelbase from BT3 to BT11 were 91" so until it can be verified otherwise will assume wheelbase of Dans car was just the same as the other Brabhams.
I will be very interested to see how you model the exhausts Stu,
For me I find this aspect with this model the most problematical(difficult), I've already got a BT7 75% finished and the exhausts are very clunky and in my eyes quite ugly.
So any pics will be appreciated
Hi Terry here's a bit of a pic of the sort of thing I will use for the BT7 tailpipes, hope you get the idea. There is no room between the top of the crown and the bottom of the exhausts to do the same as was done with the BT19. Incidentally, I did do another set of those and have some pictures but the second lot of finishing pictures were still in my phone when it went through the wash.Subsequently they were lost when the phone was reformatted after the phone was fixed....lost everything! It was a new phone on a new contract...
Anyways, I use a lathe to make them but did do a couple of these using the tapered forming bit in a drill( not for the turned bits) and held the 3/32 aluminium tube in a drill chuck just to see if it could be done. It can. Allow some offcut for the tube as the chuck will deform it. Tail pipes on the car in the pick are attach to the original resin exhausts that Stubbo cast. The forming bit was shaped using a belt sander then sanded spinning in a drill using 1500 grit. It needs to be smooth and used with grease because it does have a tendency to grab. Its pushed 'drilled' into the end of the tube to stretch the tube.
While I'm fiddling with chassis designs, I've turned some attention to the Penelope Pitlane Ferrari 158. This shell needs q bit more attention than the George Turner shells I've come to like so much. First, there's the big, square open space on the underside of the nose. I got that filled in with a piece of black ABS, and filed it to shape.
Then some primer/filler to see what we have for a surface, and some filling with red spot putty
I then sanded the filler back. I noticed while working on the shell that it flexed quite a bit at the thin portion where the front suspension emerges from the body, so I reinforced it with some glass cloth and super-glue
Hoping to get some white primer on the shell today.
Update White primer Rivet decals, white topcoat, and some alclad on the body shell. The rivets might be a bit oversize, but then again, it's hard to find shallow impression with a rivet-head in the middle decals So a 'cheat' to suggest, rather than denote.