Post by Mark Huber on Nov 15, 2014 21:26:48 GMT -5
While I readily admit that I have a talent for confusing folks, at times with malice aforethought, but more often, inadvertently,
In this case...
Please recall that I never represented that the sample chassis were meant to be Lotus 24s. I was forwarding some clean, neat and elegant wire and brass constructs using the once ubiquitous BWA brackets. David's Lotus 49C chassis was one one the best of the bunch, if not THE best, so I included it and YES, suggested you use it as a guide.
My MISTAKE was not to append the appropriate WARNING -- Caution.. This is an Example Only.. This is Not a Lotus 24 Chassis. i do not have a picture of a Lotus 24 Chassis with BWA brackets.
This came to light when I also noticed the positioning of your rear shock/dampers on the Lotus 24. However, A GENTLEMAN does not point out those sort of things, AFTER the fact.
Now, I shall return to my lair, ready to sneak out and confuse others new to the mysteries of 1.5L minutia.
Last Edit: Nov 15, 2014 23:36:17 GMT -5 by Mark Huber
Herr Huber, I did say my own tunnel vision and concentration was at fault for not cross checking between the two. But I grasped that image as the easiest one for a mere rally fan to follow. Besides.... They tend to all look a bit the same to me. (Ducking behind chair)
I'm also about 5mm over spec on the width. Meh. Mark II will be better, I hope.
Actually, now that I have an idea of how it works I think I can adjust the basic layout to suit the 24. I'm kind of glad I made the glaring error with the rear because now I have a reason to rebuild it.
Hopefully I'll have some more brackets to work with in a couple of days.
When I look at this spring and damper unit I see the bar being raised for the concours in GPd2015.
I could not agree more David. 2014 was an extraordinary year for conours quality and judging by whats taking shape here the 2015 proxy competitions will reveal many magnificent works of model making. These skills are way beyond anything I could ever hope to achieve. I may be sitting this one out next year...
I wasn't particularly happy with the front, so I redid it.
Of course, the change meant that I had to fill the changes I'd made to the chassis. I can really recommend the Tamiya Light Curing putty. It cures quickly and is every bit as hard as the original resin.
It's taking a bit more work to get the shell to sit as well on chassis version 2b than on the original, but I think it looking much better.
Very much my first foray into these delicate little machines. Also my first battle with piano wire.
I can't get the shell to sit as low over the Mk 2b chassis as it was over the Mk 1. The position is limited by the rear suspension. I've tried to clear a little more meat out of the shell, but there's not a great deal there to remove. The front bracket is just within the range of the shell.
What would you gents suggest for gearing? The power plant will be an SRP 16k. Wheels are the last set of BWA 15s I have left. This car is really cleaning up any BWA leftovers.
Post by Mark Huber on Nov 23, 2014 17:51:41 GMT -5
I can't see the location of the rear spring/damper in relation to the rear cowling as the wheel is in the way. So, I can't give you any suggestions as to "surgery" around the opening. Another solution might be to lower/shorten the rear/spring damper at the top.
As for the front bracket, you can trim the bracket in front of the axle tube to lower the profile.
Last Edit: Nov 23, 2014 18:43:11 GMT -5 by Mark Huber
I really don't fancy removing the rear springs and shortening them. Those things took me the better part of half a day. Tell you what, this project has certainly made me wish I was ambidextrous, although I think I'm getting better at soldering with my left hand.
I'll try to get some better photos of the rear later, Mark. The front bracket doesn't seem to be at issue. There's still plenty of room there. I'll keep working on the slots in the shell behind the front wheels to see if I can bed things in any better there, though that will tilt the shell forward on the chassis rather than drop the whole over it.
Post by Chris Wright on Nov 23, 2014 23:56:18 GMT -5
Ember before you go too far trying to get the rear lower, install your crown gear, the smallest you have, the gears have a habit of hitting the inside of the body on a 24, if you have a Ranch Design set up, use that.
Hmmm... Only got Slot.its in the parts drawers at the moment. Will have to go shopping for Ranch Design. Any recommendation on gear ratios? I suppose I should just order a range of them. Will SRP pinions mesh ok with them?
Post by David Mitcham on Nov 24, 2014 6:32:15 GMT -5
I hate to write this but judging from the pictures I'm fairly sure that the issue at the rear of the car is the spring mounts being soldered on top of the motor bracket. I've learned to avoid soldering anything to the top of a bracket and in some cases I've cut down the top of the bracket to ensure the body sits in the right place and emulates the real car. If you could file down the rod on top of the bracket - that should help. Chris is right about the crown gear being another limiting factor. I've found through bitter experience that Ranch Design gears, which are excellent, are about the only ones which fit with minimum problems in the 1.5 litre cars. Sometimes only the smallest one's of those will do - maybe at the expense of the "right" ratio if serious racing is not an objective. I don't know if the SRP pinion will be compatible with them but Steve at RD also sells brass pinions which fit a 1.5mm motor shaft.
Having said all of that the Lotus looks very good to me!
Thanks for the tip about the Tamiya putty; I've ordered some to try as my ancient supply of Humbrol filler will not last much longer.